Broom style elm - trunk chop question

[wojt333]

Good day everyone,

I have been growing this elm for a few years now and put it in the ground since spring 2022.
Especially over the last two years the trunk his thickened rapidly.
At this point I'm considering to do a trunk chop, either this year or next year, and starting a broom style elm project.
After looking at some other forum posts, I came up with some questions.

In some posts I see the trunk chopped tree (or stump) directly potted in to some sort of training pot.
Wouldn't it make more sense to do the trunk chop with the tree in the ground?
With more roots, and thus more energy stored, the amount buds growing on the cut would increase, right?
Or is there some risk with leaving the tree in the ground that I don't see?

Does it make sense to do any root work with a tree that's growing in the ground?
I had the tree growing in a pot for two years, doing yearly root pruning, and then planted it in the garden on a tile with the roots spread out.
But after two years, would I have to dig it up, prune the roots and plant it back? (knowing this would delay the trunk chop with a year)

Also, since the normally repotting is done early spring and I found it recommended to do the trunk chop during summer, in which order would I go about?
Trunk chop in summer and dig it up / pot the tree next year spring?

2022


2023


2024

 

[defra]

I grow trees in the ground also and they have to get rootwork also, every two years dig up and do rootwork otherwise you end up with roots so thick you cant use once you want to put it in a pot.
Or every (other)year take a shovel and cut around the rootball.

Chopping in ground vs pot, if you chop in the ground it Will heal the wound Faster yes, but the new shoots will also grow so fast that you will have to stay on top of it.
Elm is verry vigorous also in a training pot so i would dig it up in spring and then chop it at the same time elms can take that easy and because its been in the ground it is most likely very healthy !

 

[defra]

I forget to mention and cant find the edit button..
But when creating a broom and getting branches to sprout all from the chop and the calus formed when the tree heals the wound it will create inverse taper, now it is not uncommon with broom style trees but it will be harder to keep that to the minimum if you grow it in the ground then when in a pot you have more controled and a bit slower growth.

 

[Shibui]

In some posts I see the trunk chopped tree (or stump) directly potted in to some sort of training pot.
Wouldn't it make more sense to do the trunk chop with the tree in the ground?
With more roots, and thus more energy stored, the amount buds growing on the cut would increase, right?
Or is there some risk with leaving the tree in the ground that I don't see?

Chop while in the ground if you like. With more roots you'll definitely get more buds and more growth of the subsequent branches but that's not always good. We want our branches to be in proportion to the trunk. The risk with very strong regrowth is that those new branches will be much too thick. You may be able to keep on top of it with pruning but I either have too many trees or not disciplined enough and loose control of chopped trees in the ground.
Container growing after chop slows growth enough to keep control and allows me to begin developing ramification.

Does it make sense to do any root work with a tree that's growing in the ground?
I had the tree growing in a pot for two years, doing yearly root pruning, and then planted it in the garden on a tile with the roots spread out.
But after two years, would I have to dig it up, prune the roots and plant it back? (knowing this would delay the trunk chop with a year)

First, where did this premise that dig and plant will delay the chop come from? I've been digging, chopping and replanting deciduous tree for bonsai for nearly 20 years and get great results.
Hopefully your previous root preparation has set the tree up so you'll still have good nebari after 2 years in the ground. The problem with fast growing is that when something gets out of balance it gets out in a big way.
I've found that planting on a tile is no guarantee of success. It only takes one root twisted under the trunk to take off and that root will lift the whole trunk away from the tile and negate your good intentions. Regular checks and root pruning is the only way I've found that works all the time. I've also noted that after good root work to establish well placed lateral roots there's no need of a tile. The trees seem to prefer to grow lateral roots so they don't seem to put down deep roots once a good lateral system is established - tiles or no tiles.

I do trunk chops and transplant in one operation at the end of winter or whatever is your preferred transplant time. Elms are resilient so respond well to chop and transplant.

 

[nuttiest]

I would move it soon anyway - looks like it is tucked away in a shaded fence corner and only the top gets sunlight.

 

[nuttiest]

I either have too many trees or not disciplined enough and loose control of chopped trees in the ground.

LOL, yep! When you look at an 'ingrounder' for possible work, and you notice the apex is same caliber as lower trunk somehow when you weren't looking. At he same time other ingrounders still look like they 'used to be a bonsai' attempt, just sigh and move along : )

 

[vancehanna]

Good day everyone,

I have been growing this elm for a few years now and put it in the ground since spring 2022.
Especially over the last two years the trunk his thickened rapidly.
At this point I'm considering to do a trunk chop, either this year or next year, and starting a broom style elm project.
After looking at some other forum posts, I came up with some questions.

In some posts I see the trunk chopped tree (or stump) directly potted in to some sort of training pot.
Wouldn't it make more sense to do the trunk chop with the tree in the ground?
With more roots, and thus more energy stored, the amount buds growing on the cut would increase, right?
Or is there some risk with leaving the tree in the ground that I don't see?

Does it make sense to do any root work with a tree that's growing in the ground?
I had the tree growing in a pot for two years, doing yearly root pruning, and then planted it in the garden on a tile with the roots spread out.
But after two years, would I have to dig it up, prune the roots and plant it back? (knowing this would delay the trunk chop with a year)

Also, since the normally repotting is done early spring and I found it recommended to do the trunk chop during summer, in which order would I go about?
Trunk chop in summer and dig it up / pot the tree next year spring?

I'd honestly let it grow in the ground and fatten up the trunk. Once in the container is as others have mentioned, much slower in growth. Here's a few photos of a developed tree that suddently died back nearly to the root; Here's some progressive shots. Note the full truck chop back in '17

Currently I'll hard prune back about 1/3 for a tighter and smaller canopy. Repot in the Spring to a shallower container.