Bonsai pot depth

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Just wondering what bonsai pot depth should I be looking at for different trees . Does it look better with a large tree in a shallow pot ?
 
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I think it depends on the shape and styling of the trees, you just have to put the tree in and judge for your self, but the general rule is that the thickness of the trunk should be roughly the same of the pot's depth if im not wrong.
 
I think it depends on the shape and styling of the trees, you just have to put the tree in and judge for your self, but the general rule is that the thickness of the trunk should be roughly the same of the pot's depth if im not wrong.
That's a good rough guideline. Don't forget the stage of development is also a major consideration. If it is still early in development, skip the small pots unless you are making a mame.
 
but the general rule is that the thickness of the trunk should be roughly the same of the pot's depth if im not wrong.
This being the case , wonder why i see massive trees put into smaller bonsai pots (everyone who views them admires them etc...)
 
Also depends on if the root mass will fit.
Sometimes it takes time to reduce the root mass to fit a given pot.
Reducing the root mass to quickly could kill the tree.
 
It completely depends...

IMG_7620.jpgIMG_7618.jpgIMG_7608.jpgIMG_7600.jpg

The best thing to do in my opinion is to study the images of good bonsai to get a sense of what works visually as a pairing between tree and pot. Generally speaking, shallow pots will make trunks appear bigger/more powerful, and taller pots are visually heavier and provide stability for the pair. Also, don't forget the horticultural needs for particular tree species.
 
I agree with the above recommendations to study images of similar trees, and look up any special needs for your tree species.

I did a video on this question... it might not cover all the possible variations and nuances but it covers the essentials, hope it helps:
 
The idea that pot depth = trunk thickness is quite patently ridiculous.
How would you manage a tiny mame tree with a 1/2" trunk or thinner? How long would it live in a 1/2" deep pot (if you could find one) What about those massive trunked tridents and olives? Pots 10" deep? Probably not.

I agree with @Michael P about deeper pots. Similar hot, dry climate over here and I've found it much better to go deeper rather than shallow. Shallow pots dry out far too quick so the trees just do not do well. Deeper is better in most cases.

Look for pots that look stable for the tree you have. Don't worry too much about any guidelines.
 

Pots:

1. The tree should be placed behind the mid line of the pot, and to the left or right of the center line.
2. The depth of the pot should be the caliper of the trunk, except for cascades.

3. Colored glazed pots should be used for flowering and fruiting trees and the colors should complement the flower color.

4. The width of the pot should two thirds the height of the tree. For very short trees, the width should be two thirds the spread of the tree.

5. Style of the pot should match the tree. Uprights without much movement should be in rectangular pots, informal uprights with a lot of trunk movement should be in oval or round pots. Massive trees should be in deep rectangular pots.
 
I dont think there is a golden rule here. Artistic preferences will lean people slightly deeper or shallower, that doesn't begin to cover doing slab plantings which one could argue has a pot depth of zero or any other avant garde potting techniques.
 
The idea that pot depth = trunk thickness is quite patently ridiculous.
How would you manage a tiny mame tree with a 1/2" trunk or thinner? How long would it live in a 1/2" deep pot (if you could find one) What about those massive trunked tridents and olives? Pots 10" deep? Probably not.

I agree with @Michael P about deeper pots. Similar hot, dry climate over here and I've found it much better to go deeper rather than shallow. Shallow pots dry out far too quick so the trees just do not do well. Deeper is better in most cases.

Look for pots that look stable for the tree you have. Don't worry too much about any guidelines.
Tell me how you really feel 🤣

The examples given above are exceptions to the rule 100%, that's why I said it was a "rough guideline." Mame/shohin nurseries in Japan are very committed to watering because of the micro size of the pots they put them in. I have heard people say that they start at 6:00 AM, and water up to six times a day in the heat of summer! I am sure this is similar to the large caliper trees in very shallow pots that you see as well. Shallow pots make tiny trees look massive, so they make this personal sacrifice for beauty.

I had a really nice mokko pot from Bigei that I was thinking about putting a shohin RMJ in. I showed to the pairing to Todd S., and he said it was beautiful, but I would have to water three times a day or more, so I decided against it. If you cannot commit to this, or your tree isn't in refinement then use a larger pot. It is better to have a tree that's alive in a 2 inch pot, than a dead tree in a 1 inch pot!
 
isn’t substrate also something to consider when choosing the size pot with the amount of direct sun?
 
isn’t substrate also something to consider when choosing the size pot with the amount of direct sun?
Yes. I use more organic matter in my mix than recommened for that reason. I know some people regard any organic matter as heresy, but it works for me when it is 110F and relative humidity is 10%. I don't mean to turn this thread into a soil war, LOL.
 
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