Bjorn at MACH5's (Subalpine Fir)

What kind of exposure do you give this tree? I had my one and only die on me and suspected it succumbed to a series of setbacks followed by heat. The heat seemed to have done it in--I think. They sure are rubbery things but very cool.


David I left mine out all winter with no protection. I left it low on the ground by a wall. I understand they can take quite a bit of cold. I know they cannot grow long term in southern areas but I know you are also way up too. I asked Ryan about this tree and the heat of summer. He told me no problems even where he is. Sometimes they get up to high 90s with no real issues although I do think he provides them with some shade on the hottest days. I had this one taking direct sun even during the dead heat of summer last year with no problems so far. Very cool species. Very flexible and lots of back budding. Foliage is quite soft as well.
 
Thank You for this post, excellent material and process. Bjorn is a genuine Bonsai Master with respect for both client and trees coupled with a great personality. My wife and I remember fondly the assistance he offered on a trip to Kyoto and Taikan Ten. Although he was busy showing and selling he took time to help us feel comfortable and introduced us to other vendors.
I look forward to seeing the progress on this tree with such a wonderful start. The left apex in line with deadwood gives a sense of unity already.
I think this species will prove to be very popular for bonsai going forward.
I have two collected that i am looking forward to beginning on so this thread will be a source of inspiration.


Great pieces you have there Frank!
 
The long jin up top that was bent to go left, may be shortened later

Interesting this insight!

Didn't realize it was moved....
And cant believe you might shorten it!

Sweet!

I'd love to hear any other interesting thoughts from your time with Bjorn!

Whicked (with an H) wicked dope!

Sorce
 
Interesting this insight!

Didn't realize it was moved....
And cant believe you might shorten it!

Sweet!

I'd love to hear any other interesting thoughts from your time with Bjorn!

Whicked (with an H) wicked dope!

Sorce


Bjorn's approach and style aligns well with mine. He seeks a highly refined image but always striving for a natural looking tree in the end. He did not try and make this subalpine fir into something that's not supposed to be. Rather, he allowed its wild, natural feel to remain while also obtaining a refined and composed image, both I think coexisting together beautifully. He works with the tree in front of him rather than imposing himself onto the tree. I believe him to be one of the best in the world at the moment. He has a deft touch along with a great artistic sensitivity that I admire.

I had some great discussions with him regarding many topics. From this crazy thing we are hell bent in calling "American Bonsai" (whatever that means), to opinions on current (and past) bonsai artists, to displaying trees, to world exhibitions like Kokufu-ten, Noelanders and the US National to... of course maple care and development. After all he spent nine years working maples at Kouka-en.
 
What kind of exposure do you give this tree? I had my one and only die on me and suspected it succumbed to a series of setbacks followed by heat. The heat seemed to have done it in--I think. They sure are rubbery things but very cool.
This might provide a bit of info. We collect them in the range of 3 to 4 thousand foot elevation. Cooler and wetter most of the year. They are hardy with snow cover higher up. I keep them in areas that get full sun ( Zone 7b). They seem to respond well to collection and careful root pruning. I have had the best results with bare root process carefully retaining as much of the fibrous root mat as possible. Chopstick and gentle washing away the soil, removing rocks and dead roots, extraneous matter. Cutting the large anchor roots to fit the initial constructed grow box. Potting up in pure pumice and giving them 2 years to regain strength before working on the tree. I protect the collected tree in an unheated greenhouse the first winter after collection and then move outside before the buds elongate. I believe as with all conifers it is best to retain as much foliage as possible initially and through the beginning development stages. We get a few days each summer in the 90 range but not a lot. My experience has been that they like to stay moist but not too wet. So i make the long term mix heavier in pumice but with a good drainage layer and attention to particle size for aeration.
 
Blast!!! I was excited to see the update!!


LOL just kidding guys!


Here is a quick update which I will soon follow up with pics. The tree last year was budding strangely. The buds swelled abnormally and needles had a hard time coming out of their sheath. Being new to the species I had no idea what it was. I contacted Ryan. He said that Abies species tend to suffer from adelgid infestations. They are a tiny insect that injects their saliva into the host plant as they feed. The saliva is toxic to the tree and inhibits proper bud formation among other issues. It was treated with imidacloprid as was recommended by Ryan. It effectively took care of the problem. Also I left this tree outside in subfreezing temps which I am sure helped kill anything that may have been left. I'm doing a preventative treatment in the next week or so. The tree is budding again normally this year. Because of the setback last year, the development was slowed down considerably. Hoping it can make up for lost time this growing season.
 
It’s such an extraordinary tree I wouldn’t have blamed you for selling it! But then again, it’s such an extraordinary tree, why would you sell it!! At least that was my thought process. ?? glad you seemingly have the problem resolved!
 
LOL just kidding guys!


Here is a quick update which I will soon follow up with pics. The tree last year was budding strangely. The buds swelled abnormally and needles had a hard time coming out of their sheath. Being new to the species I had no idea what it was. I contacted Ryan. He said that Abies species tend to suffer from adelgid infestations. They are a tiny insect that injects their saliva into the host plant as they feed. The saliva is toxic to the tree and inhibits proper bud formation among other issues. It was treated with imidacloprid as was recommended by Ryan. It effectively took care of the problem. Also I left this tree outside in subfreezing temps which I am sure helped kill anything that may have been left. I'm doing a preventative treatment in the next week or so. The tree is budding again normally this year. Because of the setback last year, the development was slowed down considerably. Hoping it can make up for lost time this growing season.
Yeah, the close-up photo of the terminal bud looks very abnormal. They should look like a nice little spherical knob. Glad you got it sorted out! I just styled my Subalpine Fir that I collected two years ago. I created a thread for it: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/subalpine-fir-abies-lasiocarpa-progression.37975/ It’s looking more and more like the cork bark variety, which develops a white, spongy bark.
331671AC-935B-4128-A005-EFC46A002423.jpeg
 
Bjorn's approach and style aligns well with mine. He seeks a highly refined image but always striving for a natural looking tree in the end. He did not try and make this subalpine fir into something that's not supposed to be. Rather, he allowed its wild, natural feel to remain while also obtaining a refined and composed image, both I think coexisting together beautifully. He works with the tree in front of him rather than imposing himself onto the tree. I believe him to be one of the best in the world at the moment. He has a deft touch along with a great artistic sensitivity that I admire.

I had some great discussions with him regarding many topics. From this crazy thing we are hell bent in calling "American Bonsai" (whatever that means), to opinions on current (and past) bonsai artists, to displaying trees, to world exhibitions like Kokufu-ten, Noelanders and the US National to... of course maple care and development. After all he spent nine years working maples at Kouka-en.
I agree with you on Bjorn. You can almost tell that a tree has been styled by him when you see it. Something he does towards the end of the branch on conifers looks so effing natural and somehow different from other artists. Very subtle.
I can see that in your deciduous trees as well Sergio. Thank you for your posts!
-Mike
 
Yeah, the close-up photo of the terminal bud looks very abnormal. They should look like a nice little spherical knob. Glad you got it sorted out! I just styled my Subalpine Fir that I collected two years ago. I created a thread for it: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/subalpine-fir-abies-lasiocarpa-progression.37975/ It’s looking more and more like the cork bark variety, which develops a white, spongy bark.
View attachment 241478


Nice work @PiñonJ. This species is great to work with. Flexible and back buds readily.


I agree with you on Bjorn. You can almost tell that a tree has been styled by him when you see it. Something he does towards the end of the branch on conifers looks so effing natural and somehow different from other artists. Very subtle.
I can see that in your deciduous trees as well Sergio. Thank you for your posts!
-Mike


Thank you Mike, I appreciate the comment.
 
Last Friday I had Bjorn at my place for the day. Last May I purchased a subalpine fir (abies lasiocarpa) from Ryan Neil that I decided to give it to Bjorn to style as the first task of the day. This material is very interesting as it suffered from a forest fire long time ago and somehow managed to survive. After most of the main trunk died back, lower branches and smaller trunks eventually grew from its base. This produced a multi-trunk growth formation of great character and a stout trunk with a huge flaring root base. I am very partial to multi-trunk trees and really was looking forward to styling the tree myself. But when the opportunity arose to having Bjorn at my garden, I decided to let him do it instead. Bjorn ended up styling two trees and later in the afternoon I brought several more into the studio for a critique of each.

We started working at 8am, first discussing the direction and style for the tree. It took about four and a half hours to complete it. Some branches only have foliage at the tips but fortunately subalpine fir bud back readily. In a few weeks, I will slip pot it into a wooden box and next year it may go into a more final bonsai container.

Below is the tree as it looked before the styling work. It's very healthy and was ready to be worked on.






Here is the work completed. The first styling done and all branches are now opened up to receive more light and air which should induce good back budding.













Up top there is a long piece of deadwood that we wanted to keep but needed to be bent to the left. It was wrapped with a piece of wet paper towel that then Bjorn covered in aluminum foil to keep it moist for a few hours. It was then bent with the help of a guy wire using an iron rod to hold it in place.






Some action shots.
















The fire damage that once killed most of the tree clearly visible in these photos.






Finally back in the garden enjoying a beautiful spring day.

Bjorn is a lot of fun to work with.
 
LOL just kidding guys!


Here is a quick update which I will soon follow up with pics. The tree last year was budding strangely. The buds swelled abnormally and needles had a hard time coming out of their sheath. Being new to the species I had no idea what it was. I contacted Ryan. He said that Abies species tend to suffer from adelgid infestations. They are a tiny insect that injects their saliva into the host plant as they feed. The saliva is toxic to the tree and inhibits proper bud formation among other issues. It was treated with imidacloprid as was recommended by Ryan. It effectively took care of the problem. Also I left this tree outside in subfreezing temps which I am sure helped kill anything that may have been left. I'm doing a preventative treatment in the next week or so. The tree is budding again normally this year. Because of the setback last year, the development was slowed down considerably. Hoping it can make up for lost time this growing season.

You were wise to get on it right away. I acquired this Silver Fir that had Adelgid infestations. I figured I could eliminate the infestation and grow the tree back to health. It lost 40% of its branches even though its been Adelgid free for 3 years. Pics of dead branches and gouting on twigs.78870C49-48F0-4888-AECA-4885CBE918E2.jpeg 83B61F01-98F9-4C32-B4AF-2F78BFBE40CA.jpeg 3875E81C-A3F1-472A-8957-217D4A18D519.jpeg That last pic shows the toxins damage on the interior growth rings where I removed a major branch. Finally, a pic of the upturned leader as a result of these toxins. I’m not confident of the tree’s long term survival even though it is budding well this year. 708A4AE1-3F8C-4DA1-B703-08B29B43BABF.jpeg I avoid insecticides whenever possible. But I always spray all my true firs right before bud break every spring now.
 
You were wise to get on it right away. I acquired this Silver Fir that had Adelgid infestations. I figured I could eliminate the infestation and grow the tree back to health. It lost 40% of its branches even though its been Adelgid free for 3 years. Pics of dead branches and gouting on twigs.View attachment 242318 View attachment 242319 View attachment 242320 That last pic shows the toxins damage on the interior growth rings where I removed a major branch. Finally, a pic of the upturned leader as a result of these toxins. I’m not confident of the tree’s long term survival even though it is budding well this year. View attachment 242321 I avoid insecticides whenever possible. But I always spray all my true firs right before bud break every spring now.



Thanks for sharing @Arcto. According to Ryan trees usually work through it specially with the help of insecticides. I am now vigilant of the problem and hope my tree moves forward. I will post pics soon. It is budding all over this year. At some point I will also remove all the wires and let it be for a while. Thus far I have only lost a couple of very small branches but I think this was due to the stress of the initial styling than anything else. Fingers crossed.
 
Back
Top Bottom