Best time to prune garden Japanese maples?

[ceriano]

Sorry this may not be bonsai related but I planted a few Japanese maples in the garden last month, they have several cross branches and really bad structure. Can I go ahead prune them now or should I wait till summer to minimize the chance for bleeding? Is ok to prune JPMs during dormancy?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Now is fine, no need to worry about bleeding; it is not harmful.

 

[sorce]

PICS!

I don't go looking for JM much, but I've never seen more than expensive ones, where pruning would ruin the full look, or grafted shits that need the energy.

I reckon it should be "bonsai" related, because proper bonsai pruning technique makes for the most pleasant structure, the ground simply allows this to happen more safely.

Being in the ground shouldn't negate our patience.

Sorce

 

[Pitoon]

Best time to prune would be right before the buds break. Seal any cuts to prevent any pathogens from entering at the wound.

 

[ceriano]

PICS!

I don't go looking for JM much, but I've never seen more than expensive ones, where pruning would ruin the full look, or grafted shits that need the energy.

I reckon it should be "bonsai" related, because proper bonsai pruning technique makes for the most pleasant structure, the ground simply allows this to happen more safely.

Being in the ground shouldn't negate our patience.

Sorce

The left one is a coral bark and right one is seiryu. They are both about 7-8ft tall maybe a bit taller.
this was part of a landscape project I did a couple of weeks ago. Both trees were heavily pot bonded I was able to comb the roots on the Seiryu but the coral bark I ended up cutting some roots.

 

[ceriano]

Closeup coral bark. This was not the tree I picked the delivery guy messed up but I did give me a reasonable discount.

 

[ceriano]

And here’s the Seiryu. It just started breaking buds today.
It's really bushy!

 

[sorce]

Nice.

I'd be working on getting the unnatural holders off ASAP, so I'd probably hold off on pruning to allow as rapid a transplant as possible.

But I don't reckon it'll hurt.

Sorce

 

[ceriano]

Nice.

I'd be working on getting the unnatural holders off ASAP, so I'd probably hold off on pruning to allow as rapid a transplant as possible.

But I don't reckon it'll hurt.

Sorce

Thanks should I prune off some of the small crossing twigs to open it up a little? or don't worry about it at this point?
Also when I prune JPMs I usually cut about an inch above the leaf node. Is that the right practice? I heard that help with the potential die-off due to bleeding.

 

[sorce]

They seem right perfect to cut back reasonably or let grow. I don't think you'll lose much potential either way. Those are right buddy buds, like, they branch 90% certain. Seems easy to predict.

I am a fan of leaving stubs, for dieback but also to tie off and drag branches down with.

I've only ever seen one tree "bleed". A yard tree, I reckon it was a pear.
Can't say I have much experience with it, I think it's a testament to my largely inactive roots in spring.
I don't have any evidence at all that it is bad, but to me, it is energy lost, regardless of what we think we witness, it's impossible to calculate.

Sorce

 

[ceriano]

They seem right perfect to cut back reasonably or let grow. I don't think you'll lose much potential either way. Those are right buddy buds, like, they branch 90% certain. Seems easy to predict.

I am a fan of leaving stubs, for dieback but also to tie off and drag branches down with.

I've only ever seen one tree "bleed". A yard tree, I reckon it was a pear.
Can't say I have much experience with it, I think it's a testament to my largely inactive roots in spring.
I don't have any evidence at all that it is bad, but to me, it is energy lost, regardless of what we think we witness, it's impossible to calculate.

Sorce

Frost got the seiryu pretty bad last night. I think it dropped to low 20s at some point. Hopefully it’ll recover.
Tomorrow will be back to 70-80s again! Crazy weather

 

[dbonsaiw]

I heard that help with the potential die-off due to bleeding.

I believe the experienced folks answered most of your questions, but to comment specifically on this point - I'm not sure that where you cut the maple will stem the bleeding. I view the trunk as containing "pipes" that carry fluids up and down the tree. When you cut the "pipe" there is a leak until the tree can seal itself off. From my very limited experience, I will prune above a node to allow for die back and, all things being equal, the tree should die back to the next viable node. This should be the case regardless of the amount of bleeding. Maples tend to bleed heavily this time of year. The only thing that seems to stem the bleeding is a root prune at the same time as the chop. Although I have thankfully never experienced this myself (yet), I understand that a hard chop in the winter, for example, can lead to the tree dying back passed the next node as it is dormant. But again, this isn't related to bleeding, but rather to the fact that the tree cannot heal itself and is being exposed to the elements.

 

[Japonicus]

Best time to prune would be right before the buds break. Seal any cuts to prevent any pathogens from entering at the wound.

This ^ perfect. Just before the buds awaken. Commit this years activity to memory, and approach next year
timely, if they're already out like the seiryu that got frost bit.

 

[Pitoon]

I use visual cues to help me remember when to get cracking. Here in Maryland there's a lot of naturalized daffodils all over. As soon as I see the first daffodil bloom in my yard it's time to start on the deciduous trees.

 

[Jzack605]

Do not seal the cuts!!!

The best time to prune would be during dormancy late in winter and focus on a structural prune. Those trees already have a very decurrent form so trying to establish a central leader would be silly in my opinion. Plus that’s they’re typical form. A structural prune will take care of just about everything and wouldn’t need much else done. Any crossing branches, weak branches, abnormal growth and deadwood. Smallest cuts possible. The closer you get to spring, warming temps and buds pushing means the more the tree may “bleed”, regardless it causes no harm. You’ll get bleeding on a warm February day.

 

[giventofly]

Can we cut the apex in the growing phase to diverge energy for another branches?

 

[ceriano]

They seem right perfect to cut back reasonably or let grow. I don't think you'll lose much potential either way. Those are right buddy buds, like, they branch 90% certain. Seems easy to predict.

I am a fan of leaving stubs, for dieback but also to tie off and drag branches down with.

I've only ever seen one tree "bleed". A yard tree, I reckon it was a pear.
Can't say I have much experience with it, I think it's a testament to my largely inactive roots in spring.
I don't have any evidence at all that it is bad, but to me, it is energy lost, regardless of what we think we witness, it's impossible to calculate.

Sorce

New addition to the garden. Moonfire JPM.
It has a nice 2” trunk but otherwise looks like a mess! I feel the nursery pruned it with a machete. I guess I have no choice but to wait till next year to do major pruning. Lots of long twigs that need to be cleaned up.