Beginning of a long journey- Shohin Arakawa

[vaibatron]

I am relatively new to maples. I was bargain shopping for some material this weekend and I found this little guy and couldn't help myself! I have a few maples thickening up in the yard, but this is my first attempt at one in the pot.

I slip potted the tree and began defoliating the dead/wilting foliage and to my surprise this little guy was battling a mite infestation which is now under control. Unfortunately, due to the stress the tree has undergone with the mites and the overall neglect, I opted to leAve the roots untouched (hence the slip pot). Though the pictures don't show, this tree has a great deal of healthy buds (fingers crossed-hoping for leaf out before fall). Now it is time to develope a gameplay for next spring.

this tree will require a great deal of time and effort with reguard to its obvious flaws..Lack of nebari, bar branching, and particularly, no taper in lower trunk. Which leads to me to my question.

What would you do?
1. Raise the soil line and attempt multiple approach or thread grafts to create nebari and better taper in the lower trunk.

Or

2. Leave the soil line as is, and attempt an air-layer to jump start a new root system. As well as multiple grafts.

Thanks for reading! Hopefully you nuts have some feedback!

Matt

 

[thumblessprimate1]

If you want a great bonsai out of this, you'd have to consider growing it out and eventually airlayer the Arakawa portion. Otherwise, you'll likely have rough bark only on the Arakawa portion; no point in worrying about nebari then.

 

[wireme]

I agree, looks like if it can be layered at the base of the Branches you'd be off to a good start. I don't know anything about JM cultivars and which ones take well to layering.

 

[vaibatron]

If you want a great bonsai out of this, you'd have to consider growing it out and eventually airlayer the Arakawa portion. Otherwise, you'll likely have rough bark only on the Arakawa portion; no point in worrying about nebari then.

So you're saying the Arakawa foliage was grafted onto the trunk? Like I said I'm a newbie to maples..

 

[thumblessprimate1]

Ah. I see. Well notice the V pattern on the trunk? That appears to be where a graft union took place between the assumed Arakawa portion aka scion and the lower portion providing the roots aka rootstock.

I'd do the air layer next year or anytime later down the road. It's not an urgent matter.

For the present this is what I would do if I were a n00b. First thing to do would be to familiarize yourself with developing taper, trunk chopping, and what causes reverse. Then plan the desired shape; how you want the main trunk to be and the ultimate size of the bonsai. Next, remove branches that would cause reverse taper.

Later, grow it out and act appropriately keeping in mind things your've learned to develop the maple. As you grow and develop the trunk and primary branches, read up on other things like care of Japanese maples, common diseases of Japanese maples, and ramification.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

Mach5 and Brian Van Fleet (BVF) have good examples of maples; you could search for their threads for information. BVF also has a blog and pdf file that has been useful to me.

 

[KennedyMarx]

I don't know from personally experience, but Peter Adams book about Japanese maples is very highly regarded. You may want to check that out.

 

[Paulpash]

I'd use this as a 'stock' tree to get air layers from and a yard tree. Plant it in the garden for a few years then air layer and you will have a few trees to play with.

I've marked a red V shape where the graft is. Above it will be corky, below is smooth acer palmatum understock. It will always look strange on a bonsai with these 2 bark types.

 

[Paulpash]

Mach5 and Brian Van Fleet (BVF) have good examples of maples; you could search for their threads for information. BVF also has a blog and pdf file that has been useful to me.

Does Mach5 have a blog? I'd join his too .....

 

[vaibatron]

Ah. I see. Well notice the V pattern on the trunk? That appears to be where a graft union took place between the assumed Arakawa portion aka scion and the lower portion providing the roots aka rootstock.

I'd do the air layer next year or anytime later down the road. It's not an urgent matter.

For the present this is what I would do if I were a n00b. First thing to do would be to familiarize yourself with developing taper, trunk chopping, and what causes reverse. Then plan the desired shape; how you want the main trunk to be and the ultimate size of the bonsai. Next, remove branches that would cause reverse taper.

Later, grow it out and act appropriately keeping in mind things your've learned to develop the maple. As you grow and develop the trunk and primary branches, read up on other things like care of Japanese maples, common diseases of Japanese maples, and ramification.

Much appreciated! For the price I paid, I would have never assumed a grafted tree. I have a couple of elm cultivars that I purchased a few years back that were grafts onto rootstock as well as a few shimp grafted parsonsii, but were pre bonsai rather than nursery stock and much more expensive.

As for this maple, I have a design sketched and am versed in developing taper, branch ramification, trunk chopping. From what I read they seem very similar to elm, in terms of development. How long do grafts usually take to hold on maples? Ballpark?

 

[MACH5]

Does Mach5 have a blog? I'd join his too .....

Marie I don't have anything of the sort at the moment. However, during this coming winter brake I will possibly, time permitting, be designing my own website/blog

I'd use this as a 'stock' tree to get air layers from and a yard tree. Plant it in the garden for a few years then air layer and you will have a few trees to play with.

I've marked a red V shape where the graft is. Above it will be corky, below is smooth acer palmatum understock. It will always look strange on a bonsai with these 2 bark types.

Yes definitely a grafted tree. I agree and I would do the same if this was my tree. I would plant it in the ground and let it do its thing for a while. I would not be in a hurry to air layer to get rid of the graft union or even make this into a bonsai just yet. As the tree gows and develops it will present you with new ways that it can be styled. If you wish to make a shohin in the end, just remember that even if the tree gets large that does not mean it cannot be made small again. Most likely you'll end up with much better material and a good trunk to work with.

Much appreciated! For the price I paid, I would have never assumed a grafted tree. I have a couple of elm cultivars that I purchased a few years back that were grafts onto rootstock as well as a few shimp grafted parsonsii, but were pre bonsai rather than nursery stock and much more expensive.

As for this maple, I have a design sketched and am versed in developing taper, branch ramification, trunk chopping. From what I read they seem very similar to elm, in terms of development. How long do grafts usually take to hold on maples? Ballpark?

Maples do take fairly quickly. It is reasonable to expect that within a year or so a graft union can completed. This is for thread as well as approach grafts. Air layers can be made in about 6 to 8 weeks (sometimes more) depending on the diameter of the branch.

 

[edprocoat]

The upper portion would develop quicker if left on the rootstock, that is the reason they grafted it in the first place. The upper graft is put on the quicker/stronger growing rootstock to develop it faster for retail sales.

ed

 

[Eric Group]

Depending on who you talk to Arakawa is supposed to be easy to layer and take cuttings from young growth, prior to the cork bark showing up. I tried two air layers on a freind's tree this year and neither seems to have made it. Not sure why... We checked it this weekend, at first thought it had healed over, but there was just a big calloused area on the side where roots should grow, no roots and the bark had not grown over the ring I removed. At the same time I Put those layers on, I took some twigs to do cuttings, and of those one has started growing now (3-4 months later, so I think it is good!) but all have a potential to make it. The ones who have not made new leaves are still holding on to one or two of the leaves left on them when I took the cuttings, and all seem to have bright red buds starting to swell a bit, so there is a chance most/ all will survive. It would be faster to take a larger layer, but I just wanted to get a damn Arakawa in my collection, and I have started from scratch with little cuttings before.

That said... I am not 100% this tree pictured is Arakawa. The bark doesn't look right it- even on young growth at the size/ age of what you have on this tree- should be exhibiting some feature of the cork starting to show up. It starts with little black/ dark grey bumps around the nodes and as the tree matures they completely cover the bark. The nodes on the branches are way too close together and compacted with your tree too. This looks like some sort of super dwarf variety, but does not resemble the Arakawa I have had dealings with. The leaves look close, perhaps this is a different subspecies of a cork bark JM, as there is certainly more than one out there, but the growth pattern just doesn't fit what I expect from Arakawa. JMHO, and I am only basing it off a few pics, so I could be wrong.

Regardless... The advice given is good IMO, you have no chance of making a real good Bonsai with that nasty graft scar... Just out this little guy in the ground, get it growing and use it as a parent plant to give you lots of little baby Maples, then make Bonsai from them. Maples are my favorite trees to view and to work with. The growth pattern, growth rate, delicate foliage and appearance while still being so strong and powerful when mature... Well they are dynamic subjects that require a lot of attention but reward you with great colors and a beautiful tree regardless of the season! I hope this tree leads to you getting really into Maples, I think they are the best Deciduous subjects for bonsai. The growth is not very similar to Elms in my view though. Maple leaves are directly across from each other, not alternating like an elm. Maples are more cold hardy, both are pretty fast growing trees when happy, but Maples fatten up a little faster I think and seem to be tougher all around.