Balancing energy in Cedar
- Thread starter b3bowen
- Start date
b3bowen
Mame
Ok sorry ran out of time to edit.
This is my small blue atlas cedar ‘horstmanns’. It is grafted, but the union looked pretty good. I have had it for about three years. During that have very gradually worked to get a dence nursery root ball into 100% akadama, lava, pumice, while gradually working on the nabari. I have been able to keep it healthy, in fact it’s needles are thicker and about twice the length of the same variety I have planted on my property. I have already trimmed this tree back and wired for fall.
I am not interested in a big thick trunk, and do not wish to put it in the ground. I would like a slender trunk, hopefully with at least a small degree of taper. I would also like to work to develop a nice ramified branch structure. This is where I could use some help.
My observation is that the tree is covered with small spur growths, these tend to not elongate much. Nearly all growth occurs in the top 1/3 of the tree. Branches if tipped back send out a bifurcation at that cut point but spurs of growth behind the cut still don't extend (see photo below).
So, I would appreciate any input on how to push lower growth (so that i can build taper) and get better ramification without cutting back branches to the closest spurs near the trunk and building from there. What to me at least does not seem to work is just to cut back stronger growth in the fall, so I am assuming something must be done during the growing season such as pinching.
This is my small blue atlas cedar ‘horstmanns’. It is grafted, but the union looked pretty good. I have had it for about three years. During that have very gradually worked to get a dence nursery root ball into 100% akadama, lava, pumice, while gradually working on the nabari. I have been able to keep it healthy, in fact it’s needles are thicker and about twice the length of the same variety I have planted on my property. I have already trimmed this tree back and wired for fall.
I am not interested in a big thick trunk, and do not wish to put it in the ground. I would like a slender trunk, hopefully with at least a small degree of taper. I would also like to work to develop a nice ramified branch structure. This is where I could use some help.
My observation is that the tree is covered with small spur growths, these tend to not elongate much. Nearly all growth occurs in the top 1/3 of the tree. Branches if tipped back send out a bifurcation at that cut point but spurs of growth behind the cut still don't extend (see photo below).
So, I would appreciate any input on how to push lower growth (so that i can build taper) and get better ramification without cutting back branches to the closest spurs near the trunk and building from there. What to me at least does not seem to work is just to cut back stronger growth in the fall, so I am assuming something must be done during the growing season such as pinching.
b3bowen
Mame
Since this will be a smaller tree, it will be important not to have long straight branch segments near the trunk.
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
I have wildtype cedrus, not sure which of the two species. But they tend to divert energy to the lower branches if I keep pruning the strong growth during summer. They flush about three times if I do. But it takes until pruning number two for the lower stuff to get stronger.
Not sure if that's the info you need, nor that it's true for any cultivar. But it seems to work for me.
Not sure if that's the info you need, nor that it's true for any cultivar. But it seems to work for me.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
For me, the simple answer is just cut more off the top.
But this whole "problem" is deeper and more layered than what is seen on the surface, though all your answers can be found simply by studying that removed branch.
The following makes me question your understanding of proper branch structure, which isn't meant to be insulting, rather, I would like to know if you watched the Mirai streams on branch structure, which I believe was covered well in the structural and detail wiring videos.
It seems some of your goals are working against each other.
This makes me question the structure of the bottom branch and how it will relate to the rest of the tree in terms of proper branch structure.
What is the structure of the lowest branch that allows it an escape from being cut to the closest buds?
Is it possible to get closeups of each branch, or perhaps a drawn diagram of the structure?
There are long term goals that this will help lay out.
Let me keep that structure conversation seperate from this other layer....
When in Fall?
Also a seperate conversation, this "simple study" of that branch, which I hope to get to after understanding a bit more of your understanding of branch structure, as it sits there is too much conflicting information/ideas to make sense of it.
Sorce
But this whole "problem" is deeper and more layered than what is seen on the surface, though all your answers can be found simply by studying that removed branch.
The following makes me question your understanding of proper branch structure, which isn't meant to be insulting, rather, I would like to know if you watched the Mirai streams on branch structure, which I believe was covered well in the structural and detail wiring videos.
It seems some of your goals are working against each other.
This makes me question the structure of the bottom branch and how it will relate to the rest of the tree in terms of proper branch structure.
What is the structure of the lowest branch that allows it an escape from being cut to the closest buds?
Is it possible to get closeups of each branch, or perhaps a drawn diagram of the structure?
There are long term goals that this will help lay out.
Let me keep that structure conversation seperate from this other layer....
When in Fall?
Also a seperate conversation, this "simple study" of that branch, which I hope to get to after understanding a bit more of your understanding of branch structure, as it sits there is too much conflicting information/ideas to make sense of it.
Sorce
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
I find that my Blue Atlas Cedar develop taper very reluctantly. They are stunning trees, one of my favorites, but the trunks tend to resemble telephone poles.
b3bowen
Mame
@sorce thank you for your response. So for a little more clarification. Obviously, this tree is very early in the stages of growth. I do not however anticipate very reliable back budding down the road. So, let’s say I have two goals, the first is as much taper as I can develop in a species that tends to not like to develop taper, and two, is to set myself up for good branch structure down the road.
Goal 1: if I make the assumption that the thickness of the trunk is proportional to the amount of growth above that point in the trunk, growing larger sacrifice branches closer to the base will allow me to thicken the base. This is not possible however, if the low branches fail to grow due to significant apical dominance. This is why I was asking about energy balance. If I simply allow strong branches to grow from the top third of the tree each year, I will end up with no taper. Below is a photo of the lowest branches.
Those at the blue arrow did not elongate at all, they just put out new needles. Those at the red arrow put out about 1 inch of growth. This is over the course of the entire season without pruning. The branch above is from the top of the tree and grew at least 6 -8 inches.
Because this tree is so young, currently, I have just been letting it grow as much as it wishes throughout the entire year, and then pruning back overly strong top growth right about now, as the deciduous trees in my area are just starting to turn to fall colors.
Goal 2:
The current lowest branch is nothing but a solar panel. I may use it in a final design, but maybe not. I don’t want it cut it all the way back, because I want to make sure I leave plenty of growth to keep the tree strong. I am, however developing it the best I can
Ideal branch structure in my mind-(online search)
My current most developed branch;
If I fail to develop early bifurcations in the branch, My branch structure will look more like this tree from North Carolina Arboretum
With thick straight segments close to the trunk.
Goal 1: if I make the assumption that the thickness of the trunk is proportional to the amount of growth above that point in the trunk, growing larger sacrifice branches closer to the base will allow me to thicken the base. This is not possible however, if the low branches fail to grow due to significant apical dominance. This is why I was asking about energy balance. If I simply allow strong branches to grow from the top third of the tree each year, I will end up with no taper. Below is a photo of the lowest branches.
Those at the blue arrow did not elongate at all, they just put out new needles. Those at the red arrow put out about 1 inch of growth. This is over the course of the entire season without pruning. The branch above is from the top of the tree and grew at least 6 -8 inches.
Because this tree is so young, currently, I have just been letting it grow as much as it wishes throughout the entire year, and then pruning back overly strong top growth right about now, as the deciduous trees in my area are just starting to turn to fall colors.
Goal 2:
The current lowest branch is nothing but a solar panel. I may use it in a final design, but maybe not. I don’t want it cut it all the way back, because I want to make sure I leave plenty of growth to keep the tree strong. I am, however developing it the best I can
Ideal branch structure in my mind-(online search)
My current most developed branch;
If I fail to develop early bifurcations in the branch, My branch structure will look more like this tree from North Carolina Arboretum
With thick straight segments close to the trunk.
Attachments
b3bowen
Mame
I guess the main question I have is how do i get that lowest growth to grow. If i pinch upper growth early in the season, will more energy go to the lower branches resulting in elongation.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Apologies for the delay, big fishing and candy fetching day yesterday!
As I gather some thoughts and attempt an efficient reply, let me say that I absolutely love this tree, hence my great concern. Blue foliage
, dark slender trunk , young enough to hold excellent potential ! Love it.
Sorce
As I gather some thoughts and attempt an efficient reply, let me say that I absolutely love this tree, hence my great concern. Blue foliage
, dark slender trunk , young enough to hold excellent potential ! Love it.Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I am not a ..."fan" lol...of that internet branch, since it was found, and your best developed branch is far superior, I feel like you may not like it that much either.
So I don't want to just talk smack about that branch, but I will because it is also, in direct opposition of your goals...goals which I love and respect BTW.
The best goal is viewing that "represented as good" tree from the NC A and identifying it's flaws. That's an impressive piece of humanism, not wanting your tree like that "popular" one. Respect!
I find that internet branch so poor and in conflict with your goal, because it seems either, wired as was to make a "branch", or grown absolutely piss poorly from scratch, at least IMO. Quite the same as those NC A tree's branches were grown. This is "OK", but you do have an opportunity to make yours much better.
I believe it is important to have this understanding, that, a 8/10 tree can be made with what IS, but starting from scratch with patience and determination can make 10/10's.
Ain't that about a branch!
It'll make sense to conclude this bit on branch structure with what my idea of a perfect branch structure is, it came from that RNeil video, the part about having a "backfill" branch before your fork. Since 2, 4, 8, 16 forking is mostly 2D, that backfill branch became key to me...
When dragging branches down for a conifer, keeping one top bud before your forks or "proper nexts" to repeat the pattern of one top bud and 2 forks.
The green your regular "proper nexts", with the yellow the fill branch.
This pattern can be reversed for D's with upward sweeping branches, keeping bottom buds for fill.
It can be altered by 90degrees to fill space, this "fill space" being something a tree does naturally.
But most importantly....
MOST IMPORTANTLY!
After 10-50years or so, when branching has run it's course, you can cut all the way back to that first top fill bud and bring the whole thing back into closer shape. Long game long game.
When your first fork is left or right, it becomes much more difficult to bring a tree evenly back into a close shape, it leaves a better chance of having "naked spots".
This is "100 year think", not many folks in that zone, but I find the farther out your plan gets, the nicer and quicker things to come together for today.
It's kind of a mind trick. As soon as you accept the super long game "patience" just happens.
Where as....wanting to get a tree "finished", leads to eh ...flaws like that NC A tree has.
Well that was a long conclusion.
But this seems like stuff that lines up with your goals and attitude towards this material and endeavor in general.
I may like that more even than I like this tree, because that is going to make this tree so good!
On to "how to get there", of there is one, with pruning. But it ain't just pruning! (And likely not pinching!)
Sorce
So I don't want to just talk smack about that branch, but I will because it is also, in direct opposition of your goals...goals which I love and respect BTW.
The best goal is viewing that "represented as good" tree from the NC A and identifying it's flaws. That's an impressive piece of humanism, not wanting your tree like that "popular" one. Respect!
I find that internet branch so poor and in conflict with your goal, because it seems either, wired as was to make a "branch", or grown absolutely piss poorly from scratch, at least IMO. Quite the same as those NC A tree's branches were grown. This is "OK", but you do have an opportunity to make yours much better.
I believe it is important to have this understanding, that, a 8/10 tree can be made with what IS, but starting from scratch with patience and determination can make 10/10's.
Ain't that about a branch!
It'll make sense to conclude this bit on branch structure with what my idea of a perfect branch structure is, it came from that RNeil video, the part about having a "backfill" branch before your fork. Since 2, 4, 8, 16 forking is mostly 2D, that backfill branch became key to me...
When dragging branches down for a conifer, keeping one top bud before your forks or "proper nexts" to repeat the pattern of one top bud and 2 forks.
The green your regular "proper nexts", with the yellow the fill branch.
This pattern can be reversed for D's with upward sweeping branches, keeping bottom buds for fill.
It can be altered by 90degrees to fill space, this "fill space" being something a tree does naturally.
But most importantly....
MOST IMPORTANTLY!
After 10-50years or so, when branching has run it's course, you can cut all the way back to that first top fill bud and bring the whole thing back into closer shape. Long game long game.
When your first fork is left or right, it becomes much more difficult to bring a tree evenly back into a close shape, it leaves a better chance of having "naked spots".
This is "100 year think", not many folks in that zone, but I find the farther out your plan gets, the nicer and quicker things to come together for today.
It's kind of a mind trick. As soon as you accept the super long game "patience" just happens.
Where as....wanting to get a tree "finished", leads to eh ...flaws like that NC A tree has.
Well that was a long conclusion.
But this seems like stuff that lines up with your goals and attitude towards this material and endeavor in general.
I may like that more even than I like this tree, because that is going to make this tree so good!
On to "how to get there", of there is one, with pruning. But it ain't just pruning! (And likely not pinching!)
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I think this is a terrible thought to hold. Our actions determine reliability no matter how "unreliable" they are. Your actions seem 9.5/10, so I would trust more, your study of the cause and effect you are producing.
Truth of it is in the study of that cut top branch. It couldn't say more boldly, that it wants to let the very next 2 buds behind the cut grow. I would hold that as an absolute for the future.
Though there is much more involved, especially when it comes to understanding how to best utilize that fact for your end goals.
There is a mash up of a few ideas which are the Truth behind the saying of "redirecting energy".
Most importantly is understanding cross-talk, between the roots and foliage, which I've only heard spoken of from Bjorn.
Also, and what is directly effecting your need of branches to grow, is Bud Size, and their Absoluteness.
Foilage mass plays a part as well, but Bud Size trumps foilage mass, but this depends on cut timing and cross-talk.
In short, redirecting energy doesn't exist, it is a simplified idea of these things
taking place, and the tree simply doing what it was going to do anyway.Those tiny "sub" branches you wish to elongate, I view them, because the tree does too, as only present for if all hell breaks loose. Like an avalanche (large chop), lightening strike, etc. Safe in their pliability and protected position, to be what the tree can continue to live on should everything else be lost.
So to bring these truths behind "redirecting energy" into scenario ....
Say you lop all the foliage mass above your best developed branch, that would be enough removal to activate those buds to be one branches.
Cross talk and timing determines the energy in which they will grow.
If lopped in spring, they will grow thin as the bud size they were.
If lopped in late summer, fall cross-talk will thicken those buds because they know they then have a greater production requirement, which is the "energy difference".
Greater because the tree didn't lose any roots and it doesn't want to, so it must produce foliage enough to balance and keep the roots alive.
This wreaks havoc on design, because that need to produce more leads to quick thickening and long internodes.
Kids to school....more on Bud Size and why it is so absolute.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
With Cross-Talk and timing of cuts in mind, you can view balancing foliage mass as one layer and balancing buds/size as another.
Balancing foliage mass, (I do this with pruning only before growth spurts, typically spring and mid summer but I am unfamiliar with the natural pattern of cedar.) can be considered a balancing of this years proportions.
Balancing Buds utilizing their size and numbers, can be considered a balancing for next year or growth spurt.
I apply simple values to things to accomplish this.
For simplicity sake, a tree with ten branches will have a bottom branch with a value of ten, for everything, taper, length, divisions, foliage mass and bud amount/size. Next up 9, 8 and so on.
This is where the basic "triangle" idea works.
Most of it though, is lost in this misunderstanding of balancing the buds for next year. So we tend to start behind the 8ball in spring. This wastes great amounts of time.
Bud size, has this range from the "only if hell breaks loose" small, to fat juicy, "this is where I will grow next" buds.
Getting a personal feel for how absolute this is, with regards to timing and cross-talk, on this tree and this tree alone, is paramount.
@GrimLore would always speak about the importance of leaving a tree alone in health to understand this for at least a year.
After that, we can take baby steps with different design unnecessary growth to determine the cause and effect of actions at different times with different combinations of buds/locations/energy etc.
You seem to be on a remarkably excellent path of patience to learn this for yourself, though again, it will be easier if you trust more, the cause and effects you are creating for "reading".
Not to pick on you of course, but I see many people in this position where, they are creating a situation better for learning and growth than a book has, yet they listen to the book, or what others on the internet are saying about what the book said.
This isn't a lack of self confidence, it is too great a confidence in the book.
Disregard the book, they were poorly translated by fools! Hence....that NC A tree. This isn't an insult to it's creator or any folks stuck here, just a wicked difficult truth.
On to the 3ish or so different paths I believe you can use to build your tree.
Sorce
Balancing foliage mass, (I do this with pruning only before growth spurts, typically spring and mid summer but I am unfamiliar with the natural pattern of cedar.) can be considered a balancing of this years proportions.
Balancing Buds utilizing their size and numbers, can be considered a balancing for next year or growth spurt.
I apply simple values to things to accomplish this.
For simplicity sake, a tree with ten branches will have a bottom branch with a value of ten, for everything, taper, length, divisions, foliage mass and bud amount/size. Next up 9, 8 and so on.
This is where the basic "triangle" idea works.
Most of it though, is lost in this misunderstanding of balancing the buds for next year. So we tend to start behind the 8ball in spring. This wastes great amounts of time.
Bud size, has this range from the "only if hell breaks loose" small, to fat juicy, "this is where I will grow next" buds.
Getting a personal feel for how absolute this is, with regards to timing and cross-talk, on this tree and this tree alone, is paramount.
@GrimLore would always speak about the importance of leaving a tree alone in health to understand this for at least a year.
After that, we can take baby steps with different design unnecessary growth to determine the cause and effect of actions at different times with different combinations of buds/locations/energy etc.
You seem to be on a remarkably excellent path of patience to learn this for yourself, though again, it will be easier if you trust more, the cause and effects you are creating for "reading".
Not to pick on you of course, but I see many people in this position where, they are creating a situation better for learning and growth than a book has, yet they listen to the book, or what others on the internet are saying about what the book said.
This isn't a lack of self confidence, it is too great a confidence in the book.
Disregard the book, they were poorly translated by fools! Hence....that NC A tree. This isn't an insult to it's creator or any folks stuck here, just a wicked difficult truth.
On to the 3ish or so different paths I believe you can use to build your tree.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Note to keep these 2 values seperate, tree values 1-10, and bud values 1-100.
Scenarios are the best way to consider how this is applicable, so let me show you 2 possible Apex choices on a spruce.
These are both options for the continuation of an Apex section.
The one on the right is the one the tree wants to be the trunkline continuation. A trident of the fattest buds (100 bud value center 90 sides) and many options down the length of the branch.
The left has 4 buds at the tip, at a value slightly less than 100, call it 85. Also with equal options down the length.
So considering the tree values lower down on the tree, if we see this slight difference (from 100 to 85 in buds) as a low enough "energy number" to reduce down to for the tip of our "triangle", we would chose the left to keep.
For this particular tree, selecting the left and leaving it is enough "balance".
I would also select the left though, because it has 4 smaller and equal tip options. So removing 2 buds is removing much less and more appropriate vigour, than if we kept the right side and removed the central 100value trunkline continuation bud.
When I believe a redistribution of energy, it is here.
Keeping the right side and removing that one central 100value trunkline continuation bud, when considering timing and cross-talk, leaves the tree a much great ability to make one of those other buds from that trident the continuation of the trunkline, (read, too fat).
The farther back down the tree you send this "idea", the harder (more time needed for cross-talk) it becomes for the tree to reproduce this dominant apical piece.
This "calms" the tree if you will. In this time of calm, it is easier to maintain things the way you want them, as that apical dominance is more suppressed.
Now.....to
Sorce
Scenarios are the best way to consider how this is applicable, so let me show you 2 possible Apex choices on a spruce.
These are both options for the continuation of an Apex section.
The one on the right is the one the tree wants to be the trunkline continuation. A trident of the fattest buds (100 bud value center 90 sides) and many options down the length of the branch.
The left has 4 buds at the tip, at a value slightly less than 100, call it 85. Also with equal options down the length.
So considering the tree values lower down on the tree, if we see this slight difference (from 100 to 85 in buds) as a low enough "energy number" to reduce down to for the tip of our "triangle", we would chose the left to keep.
For this particular tree, selecting the left and leaving it is enough "balance".
I would also select the left though, because it has 4 smaller and equal tip options. So removing 2 buds is removing much less and more appropriate vigour, than if we kept the right side and removed the central 100value trunkline continuation bud.
When I believe a redistribution of energy, it is here.
Keeping the right side and removing that one central 100value trunkline continuation bud, when considering timing and cross-talk, leaves the tree a much great ability to make one of those other buds from that trident the continuation of the trunkline, (read, too fat).
The farther back down the tree you send this "idea", the harder (more time needed for cross-talk) it becomes for the tree to reproduce this dominant apical piece.
This "calms" the tree if you will. In this time of calm, it is easier to maintain things the way you want them, as that apical dominance is more suppressed.
Now.....to
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I think you'll find the easiest route to build this tree, is by understanding the 2 extremes your goal lies between.
One extreme would be cutting it to the bud above your best developed branch, (cuz why not keep it!). Extreme (for cedar?) Taper and time. A wide flat triangle.
The other extreme would be basically using what is there and recreating what you don't like about the NC A tree. Quick and redic, a tall thin triangle.
These triangles are ideas of Energy. Not design.
The idea is to use the energy triangle to create the design triangle of your choice. (Or "jumping jack figure" if you're Ryan Neil, I don't like it, but I don't judge subjectives.)
I guess the entire idea of this long drawn out explanation, is to realize that, understanding these things allows one to create any healthy design of their choice.
Where following "this is what I do's", is leaving you subject to the advice givers health and design ideas, both of which are usually poor due to the way they(health and design) interact (as explained here), further, it is damn near impossible due to the "your garden your method" philosophy, which most folks unwillingly choose to omit from discussion, due to the nature of the internet.
This thought is greatly enhanced in this thread, because @wires has a Mugo that grew for 3 seasons straight!
Not that I don't trust him or that he doesn't have good information...but....!
Cont'd.
Sorce
One extreme would be cutting it to the bud above your best developed branch, (cuz why not keep it!). Extreme (for cedar?) Taper and time. A wide flat triangle.
The other extreme would be basically using what is there and recreating what you don't like about the NC A tree. Quick and redic, a tall thin triangle.
These triangles are ideas of Energy. Not design.
The idea is to use the energy triangle to create the design triangle of your choice. (Or "jumping jack figure" if you're Ryan Neil, I don't like it, but I don't judge subjectives.)
I guess the entire idea of this long drawn out explanation, is to realize that, understanding these things allows one to create any healthy design of their choice.
Where following "this is what I do's", is leaving you subject to the advice givers health and design ideas, both of which are usually poor due to the way they(health and design) interact (as explained here), further, it is damn near impossible due to the "your garden your method" philosophy, which most folks unwillingly choose to omit from discussion, due to the nature of the internet.
This thought is greatly enhanced in this thread, because @wires has a Mugo that grew for 3 seasons straight!
Not that I don't trust him or that he doesn't have good information...but....!Cont'd.
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I believe you'll find a combination of build methods applicable across the tree at different times.
I reckon remembering we are "learning against the clock" is important. I keep the clock moving slow by practicing PPB, or keeping potential problems at bay.
I believe the most important "balancing" there is, like William Wallace in Braveheart, knowing when to "hold, hold", until the exact moment it is necessary to act. This display of patience builds health, which builds options, which builds faster.
Anyway.... if I can finally get to building your tree...
I would have the exact same goals if I were you, your expectations seem to fall directly in line with what is possible to make this a 10/10 tree, a proper display of "working WITH the tree". Love that. While taking on a difficult...."difficult" task...sorry this excites me greatly, this rational shot for excellence.
I think the easiest path would be to grow out what trunk taper you wish, with sacrifice branches opposite your (currently "sub" non-growing buds) keepers, then once you have your taper, cut all the sacs off ("all hell broke loose") and begin building your tree with the smaller growth.
This seems possible because this thing is so young and dense, it seems opposite and alternate at the same time.
That kind of young health makes it reasonable to have those "sub" buds some manner of alive or able to regrow, which is the largest difficulty, and the "hold, hold" tipping point, cuz when they're dead dead, they're dead!
You seem in such great control of this thing and it's health, I believe you will find this bit of PPB practice rather easy. Eking out the taper you can here, and not sacrificing branch quality.
Also, that cut branch study, but with this more difficult "balancing" situation...
In some places, mostly lower on the tree, and where the exit point of the branch is disguised, you can utilize those far out buds that extended, to build slower and smaller amounts of trunk taper, by keeping those closest buds alive to cut back to. This is a greater difficulty level because the first branch segment can quickly become too thick.
The last way, is to not be scared to take the entire thing back to something crazy and rebuild all kinds of taper.
I think you have a great grip on the health of this tree to know when this is safe and appropriate.
It's always important to remember to keep skinning the shit out of the Apex, keep that apical sense deeply suppressed.
That's it! Simple!
Sorce
I reckon remembering we are "learning against the clock" is important. I keep the clock moving slow by practicing PPB, or keeping potential problems at bay.
I believe the most important "balancing" there is, like William Wallace in Braveheart, knowing when to "hold, hold", until the exact moment it is necessary to act. This display of patience builds health, which builds options, which builds faster.
Anyway.... if I can finally get to building your tree...
I would have the exact same goals if I were you, your expectations seem to fall directly in line with what is possible to make this a 10/10 tree, a proper display of "working WITH the tree". Love that. While taking on a difficult...."difficult" task...sorry this excites me greatly, this rational shot for excellence.
I think the easiest path would be to grow out what trunk taper you wish, with sacrifice branches opposite your (currently "sub" non-growing buds) keepers, then once you have your taper, cut all the sacs off ("all hell broke loose") and begin building your tree with the smaller growth.
This seems possible because this thing is so young and dense, it seems opposite and alternate at the same time.
That kind of young health makes it reasonable to have those "sub" buds some manner of alive or able to regrow, which is the largest difficulty, and the "hold, hold" tipping point, cuz when they're dead dead, they're dead!
You seem in such great control of this thing and it's health, I believe you will find this bit of PPB practice rather easy. Eking out the taper you can here, and not sacrificing branch quality.
Also, that cut branch study, but with this more difficult "balancing" situation...
In some places, mostly lower on the tree, and where the exit point of the branch is disguised, you can utilize those far out buds that extended, to build slower and smaller amounts of trunk taper, by keeping those closest buds alive to cut back to. This is a greater difficulty level because the first branch segment can quickly become too thick.
The last way, is to not be scared to take the entire thing back to something crazy and rebuild all kinds of taper.
I think you have a great grip on the health of this tree to know when this is safe and appropriate.
It's always important to remember to keep skinning the shit out of the Apex, keep that apical sense deeply suppressed.
That's it! Simple!
Sorce
b3bowen
Mame
@sorce I really appreciate all the time and effort you took on such an excellent explanation of how you would approach this tree. Your discussion has been incredibly helpful and I will put it all into use as I continue to develop the tree. I am very excited about this tree, because I think it has such good potential. Your discussion of maintaining these smaller sub branches in order to give me something to cut back to as the tree moves forward is an excellent point. Thank you for pointing it out.
treepirate
Sapling
Your branch structure looks great! Maybe try wiring tips up on interior and week growth and lay down stronger and outer growth late summer ready for the autumn??
