Baby Brazilian Rain Tree advice wanted

brainfree

Mame
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Hamilton, Ontario.
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The trunk on this little BRT caught my eye right away and I was wondering what people would suggest. Should it be a two trunk or single trunk tree? If I leave the big side branch near the bottom will it adversely affect the taper? I love the zig zag line of the main trunk and would really like to accentuate that. I've exposed a bit of the roots to have a look and wonder also if I should leave it exposed when I pot it?
Also wondering if the pot I intend to use should be bigger. I welcome all suggestions Thanks.

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First question for me would be, how large do you want the tree to be in the end design? if you’re happy with the trunk size, that pot would be fine. If you would like to grow it larger, and they grow large very quickly, You will need a larger container. Ideally wide and flat.

It is hard to get taper on these, that low branch will help some, but it will be a challenge to deal with it later if it grows out of control. When you cut branches be sure to leave a stub for die back!
 
This thing deserves better than that pot!
Even leaving it in what it's in!

Seems that branch will kill the good proportion of your taper this year if left untouched.

Bloody nice grab!

Sorce
 
You are lucky to have a BRT that has lots of zig-zag low on the trunk. Most of them are left alone when young and become "Too Tall Jones" which sets the character in stone. That is very hard to overcome. To grow the tree in proportion, you need to keep in mind that every leaf contributes to increase in growth of the trunk below it, and only below the branch where it grows. To state it conversely: Each ascending level needs to have fewer leaves than the previous level in order to grow less than the lower level. You have 8 distinct zig-zags, with only one section, 7 to 8, that is longer and the same diameter than the one immediately below it. This is golden. You need to stop growth above #8 for as long as it takes to become thinner than the diameter of #6 to 7. (BRT has a tendency to grow branches that are not round, but instead are oval. This leads to being seen as thinner from one view than they really are, or seen as thicker if viewed from 90° or the wider view of the oval giving an impression of inverse taper. The tree twists as it grows (nobody knows why) so it can have perfect taper and still look like it has inverse taper from one view or another. Yours looks very good. Luck of the draw!
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Anyway, if you have 50 leaves one branch #1, you need 45 or 40 on #2 to maintain taper between #1 to #2, and then 35 to 30 on #3, 30 to 25 on #4, 25 to 20 on #5, 20 to 15 on #6, ad infinitum. You could shorten #5.5, 6 & 8 to dotted lines and limit growth there, and hope for some branches at #2, 3, 5 & 7. The bigger the difference in the number of leaves between the ascending branches, the bigger the difference in the size of the trunk between them. (You should choose to keep either 5.5 or 6 and eliminate the other or eventually two branches at one point will contribute to a swollen node and inverse taper.) The branches should radiate like a spiral staircase ascending the trunk with each shorter and thinner than the one below it and rotated 130° about the centerline of the trunk. The tippy-top should favor new, thinner branches over thicker, older branches, as zig-zag as possible, and radiate like a snowflake, but horizontally. (This whole paragraph is an ideal formula. It won't grow like that, so wire is necessary when and where needed. Do the best you can with what actually grows.)

Grow it in a pot the same size & shape as you want it to ultimately be the finished size. Repot every year in early summer. Feed only in the growing season in the presence of good light.
 
Thank you MHBonsai and sorce for your responses. Both very helpful. I will definitely get a bigger pot!

Thank you Forsoothe for your invaluable insights. This is exactly the information I was looking for!! I do realize that it will grow very fast and you've given the info I need to create the taper this tree needs. One last question. Think I should keep that big root coming out the right side?

On another note I watched a video on Youtube where a guy explained there are 2 types of BRT's. One with straight trunks and one with twisting trunks. Do any of you have any knowledge of this? Is this true?
I have a straight trunk BRT that I purchased last summer and it's done surprisingly well in front of a south facing window indoors. I stopped fertilizing every week after I brought it indoors and was just doing it every few weeks. We've started getting a little more sun now though and I'm back to fertilizing weekly and it's growing like crazy again. Need to do some serious pruning- and now that I know better how to create taper I'm looking forward to getting it outside when it's warm enough.
Thanks again for your insights.
 
Thank you MHBonsai and sorce for your responses. Both very helpful. I will definitely get a bigger pot!

Thank you Forsoothe for your invaluable insights. This is exactly the information I was looking for!! I do realize that it will grow very fast and you've given the info I need to create the taper this tree needs. One last question. Think I should keep that big root coming out the right side?

On another note I watched a video on Youtube where a guy explained there are 2 types of BRT's. One with straight trunks and one with twisting trunks. Do any of you have any knowledge of this? Is this true?
I have a straight trunk BRT that I purchased last summer and it's done surprisingly well in front of a south facing window indoors. I stopped fertilizing every week after I brought it indoors and was just doing it every few weeks. We've started getting a little more sun now though and I'm back to fertilizing weekly and it's growing like crazy again. Need to do some serious pruning- and now that I know better how to create taper I'm looking forward to getting it outside when it's warm enough.
Thanks again for your insights.
Consider finding an interesting rock that could be inserted under that root next time you repot. If that appeals to you, then take some pictures of the space it would need to fit into, annotate the photo in an editing or paint program and keep the picture on your cell phone so when you find a candidate stone you can refresh your memory on the details. Or, that root may be loosened and re-positioned, maybe, at next repot, (or both). Any root is valuable to growing, and one that you can manipulate into a feature rather than an eyesore is worth taking your time with to try to utilize.

I wouldn't be surprised if there are other BRT cultivars or species, but I don't know anything about them. Evidently you have good inside conditions to grow them, so continue your successful regime. Good luck, and enjoy, ehh?
 
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@brainfree

One other thing you need to know about BRT, is that if you cut a branch, it WILL die off down to the last internode.
So whenever you make a cut, cut above the internode you want new leaves at, not at that internode.
If you decide to remove that side branch, dont cut flush to the trunk right away. Cut above it and allow that branch to die back to the trunk.
After it dies back you can cut it flush to the trunk. If you cut it to the trunk right away, it could cause die back down the trunk itself which you dont want.
 
So I’ve done the initial pruning on this and think I’ll grow it out a bit and take my time finding the right pot for it.
 

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You cut what I would have left and left what I would have cut.
If your looking for a small tree, all that heavy growth you left in the crown will just continue to get larger. At the expense of base expansion. Your building an out of proportion hourglass.
 
You cut what I would have left and left what I would have cut.
If your looking for a small tree, all that heavy growth you left in the crown will just continue to get larger. At the expense of base expansion. Your building an out of proportion hourglass.
I disagree. He followed my initial suggestions and will proceed to a well-balanced short tree. Unusual in BRT, and very desirable. Some people don't want a tall tree. I don't talk bad about the "Too Tall Jones" BRT that make up 90% of the starters I see here that have zero character within a foot of the pot, but I'll be watching from now on for your coaching for Jones... I may even comment!
 
I disagree. He followed my initial suggestions and will proceed to a well-balanced short tree. Unusual in BRT, and very desirable. Some people don't want a tall tree. I don't talk bad about the "Too Tall Jones" BRT that make up 90% of the starters I see here that have zero character within a foot of the pot, but I'll be watching from now on for your coaching for Jones... I may even comment!



who cares.....?
 
My post was not meant to slander you. Not my intent. We have similar climates, in more ways than you know!

Okay so first of all......I know exactly where Michigan is. Second, I have no idea what, "….oops, Billy's howdy-do 'twant for you...." , and what that video means, and third, there's no need to be rude to Forsoothe just because he disagrees with you.
I'm here to ask questions, learn, and get some sage advice. Not to get into immature arguments. So unless you have something helpful to contribute, I'd rather not here from you, thank you very much.
 
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Here’s a couple pics from above. I’ve trimmed the top branches back to the first set of leaves (keeping into account die-back) and chopped the big branch lower down to eliminate the chance of reverse taper.
 

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