Hi Ric
I like what you have done with your cypress. I would love to have some here but they surly die. Do yours thrive where you live? How long have you had any and does the foliage stay tight on the branches or does it tend to get poodlie? Is that a word? I hope you know what I mean.
Nice job, Al
Thanks Al! a few notes from the care sheet:
The easiest false cypress to keep alive is the Hinoki cypress, C. obtusa. Many report great success in growing it, but unfortunately, it seems to be one of the most difficult to keep in proper bonsai form due to the whorling fan patern of the foliage.
I support this data, with the exception of once you know how to tame them, this becomes a moot point.
Lighting:
Full sun, in all but the hottest climates, is ESSENTIAL. Without proper lighting, lower and inner branches brown and die, which is a serious problem because Chamaecyparis will not bud back on old wood. Many books recommend putting these trees in the shade, but this seems to be a strategy to avoid having the soil dry out completely
This is not a problem for Nova Scotia, mine lie in full sun. I would not place them in partial shade or morning sun etc... In my experience if protection from the sun is needed, I would use shade cloth worth 35-50%. Shade cloth (as you know Al) is not like placing trees in the shade or partial sun. For others who may or may not know, shade cloth provides full filtered sun.
Temperature:
Zone 5 - 8A. Most Chamaecyparis species are hardy to -10F, but are in danger of die-back from cold, drying winds.
Not a problem here they sleep in the greenhouse (unheated)
Watering:
Touchy. Many varieties, especially Boulevard/blue moss cypress, are very vulnerable to root rot. However, unlike most genera that like it dry, false-cypresses tend to drink a lot of water, especially when in an active growth phase. And Chamaecyparis can never be allowed to dry out completely. Also, drying winds can cause foliage die-back. The best strategy is to use very fast-draining soil, water moderately, allow it to dry somewhat between waterings, and supplement watering with frequent misting. Also, an older couple in the Buffalo Bonsai Society with some very nice Chamaecyparis advised me to water only in the morning to early afternoon, to avoid having the trees stand in water overnight.
The directions provided here cover all cypresses and hence air on the side of caution. This was written long ago and we have come a long way since in our bonsai culture and cultivation.
Drying winds might be a problem in you neck of the woods, especially when you mentioned such about your trident.
A fast draining soil that remains moist is the solution and I do not mist, the rain around here looks after that. My irrigation system has misters that mist as well as watering during watering periods.
The last part is dated, unless the trees are in soil, this is a moot point. Proper bonsai substrate precludes this worry. As a matter of fact my trees at the height of summer on timer are water 7am-7pm.
Pruning and wiring:
The major styling challenge for false cypress is the fatal combination of rapid growth, die-back from lack of light, and refusal to bud on old wood. If Chamaecyparis isn't pruned constantly, inside and lower branches will die and never grow back, making bonsai maintenence a headache. The tree is best shaped through constant pinching of new foliage - never use scissors to prune as foliage browns where cut.
This is where I totally disagree with the care sheet. Constant pinching of the tips results in a "poodle type" foliage pads. Brent refers to this I believe, although I believe Brent was talking Junipers, it applies here as well. I selectively prune using "nose scissors" each and every fan. The pad will built itself up over time (thickness, in about a season). Having said that, the data may apply to other cypresses.
Hinoki cypress also tends to form awkward whorls of foliage if not properly pruned. There is an excellent article by Kamajiro Yamada in International Bonsai 1995/No. 3 which gives detailed instructions accompanied with photographs of how to do this.
New growth goes vertical in search of light. Proper positioning in full sun and rotating the tree weekly alleviates this, of course proper pruning is of the essence.
Most false cypresses are easy to wire, but branches may take a while to set and may need to be re-wired several times to avoid cutting in to the tree. Can be wired at any time of year, but as wiring seems to sap the vigor of the plant, it is best to wait three months after repotting to wire.
I have found as discussed elsewhere that applying wire in the fall is the best time to do so. The branch has pretty much set come growing season and only a guy wire needs to be applied. If a second wiring is required, the wires are removed when they start to pinch, usually (in my case) towards the end of summer, the tree is given a break and is re-wired in late fall (Nov).
The bold text has taught me a very important lesson. I had forgotten this very important piece of info and loss a tree because of it. The story can be found on my blog. Although repotting was more or less a slip pot with no root work carried out, within weeks-months I lost the tree. Bonsai tuition??
Sorry for the long post Al. I thought it would better answer your question.
They absolutely love my climate and care. I have learned some important lessons wrt the un-forgivingness of the species.
I have been cultivating Hinokis since the beginning of my journey 5 years ago. I have since then come to understand that if trees are not available in a particular area, do not import them, there is a reason for it. During my education I have come to the conclusion that I should go with what does well here. In my neck of the woods Hinokis, Boxwoods, Maples, Burning Bush and Cotoneasaters. I wanted one or several of all species and, gave up on that silly idea a few years ago. Too much info to retain. This way here I can excel on a few species that like the climate and for which I have a good understanding of. I'm tired of fighting mother nature.
I believe the answer wrt the foliage tightness has been answered above. However, foreshortening of branches is required to bring the foliage in close to the trunk where die back occured. Selective pruning in the future looks after things quite well. The thing is to get good stock to start with, something I did not do in the beginning. I went through 17 trees (all they had) to find this one. My selection was amongst only two finalists.
Having said all this, there are several Cultivars of Hinoki's, I prefer to work with the "Gracilis". The one that died (wiring) was a Templehoff. I have a Kosteri and an Aurea. The Kosteri's foliage is very coarse whilst the Aurea has golden tips (new foliage) with dark green mature foliage. The latter may not be quite suitable for bonsai, but makes a good landscape bonsai specimen.
