And so this is Xmas... Summer, Ficus, defoliation...

Clicio

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Well, folks, here in Brazil summer came with strong and regular 90'sF every day.
So I thought "what about defoliating that mallsai I am trying to save"?
And believe me, in one week it is surely back-budding like crazy!
Plan is to prune and defoliate again in late summer to fill-in the empty spaces and visually lower the tree , but mostly what I am trying to accomplish is to get rid of the leggy branches.
Hard pruning (or chop, if needed) will be postponed till next spring.
Some before/on the date/after defoliation pictures.

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Before defoliation

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Before defoliation

170826-bonsai-ago2017-2225.jpg
Before defoliation

171211-sem título-2838.jpg
After defoliation - Day 1 - Dec. 11th, 2017

171217-bonsai-3093.jpg
After one week

171217-bonsai-3096.jpg
After one week (yesterday)
 
Clicio,

try this ---------- defoliate ----------- see if you can get it to hold off
for 2 or 3 weeks.

Normally we get a much better response with a slower response.
Finer leaves, more leaves and more branching.

The very rapid response gives just okay regrowth.
Especially with Tamarinds.
Good Day
Anthony
 
Clicio,
try this ---------- defoliate ----------- see if you can get it to hold off
for 2 or 3 weeks.

@Anthony , makes sense, but HOW do I hold it off?
Take the fertilizer out?
Leave it in the shade?
Water less than the usual?
All Three?
None of the above?
:-) Thanks!
 
I think that defoliating is the wrong approach to induce back budding, and is likely setting you back. Someone on here suggested the technique of letting the branches run but removing the inner older leaves to let the light in. It seemed counter intuitive to me, but it seemed to generate good results. I also think branch selection to open up the inside to more light would be more lightly to initiate back budding. However, a ficus in Brasil will eventually get there... It is like a fish in water. I wouldn't worry about waiting until Spring for more drastic action.

Aside: I remember hearing at summer camp that that type of moss that grows in clumps like that(as opposed to dangly "Spanish moss" as it is called in Florida) is parasitic. I am not an authority on the matter, so feel free to ignore.
 
... However, a ficus in Brasil will eventually get there... It is like a fish in water.

Well, most bonsaists in Brazil do defoliate their Ficus in the summer to get smaller leaves and induce back-budding.
In this case, it is working, as I have opened the space in the crown to let more light in in the past, with no results (back budding).

I wouldn't worry about waiting until Spring for more drastic action.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind!

Aside: I remember hearing at summer camp that that type of moss that grows in clumps like that(as opposed to dangly "Spanish moss" as it is called in Florida) is parasitic. I am not an authority on the matter, so feel free to ignore.

It IS surely parasitic, if you let it grow out of control it can be harmful for the tree, but...
I do check it every day!
:-)
 
@Clicio ,

First - we have a pronounced dry season - Christmas to May/June.

Second - we fertilise one month after repotting. The NPK is something like 12 N and much less P and K
into moist soil.
The fertiliser is to counter the dry weather and the hot sun, the leaves stay dark green.

BUT NOT to encourage long shoots of tender growth. These short shoots are mostly bitter to insects.

Repotting is from 2nd January until Mid February and April/May for Tamarinds.

Plants are always well fertilised before defoliation --------- normally only once a year.
Defoliation is done at the height of our dry season say - April/May.
Good Day
Anthony
 
First - we have a pronounced dry season - Christmas to May/June.

Well, completely different here; summer is our wet season, it rains almost every afternoon.
Dry season in Brazil is from June to August, winter here.

Thanks!
 
@Clicio,

I suggest you grow at least 10 natives, 5 a piece. 50 plants.
See how they have adapted to the climate.
Good Day
Anthony
 
Ryan ,

hmm, never thought of 12 N as being heavy nitrogen.
The fertiliser is Miracle Gro - Lawn Food - 36 N- 6 K2O - 3 S - 0.325 F

You still have to factor the K20 for the K part - 4.98 K I believe.
K is supposed to wash out fairly quickly or bond bond to the soil
components.

At 1/3 strength - 12 N - 1.7 K - 1 S - 0.11 F and into moist soil.
Once a week, usually Sunday morning.

Our Sunlight is stronger than yours, paints tested in Arizona fail in our
climate.
Been using 12 N since 1986 or so.
Never had problems.

Might be the aged compost buffers the fertiliser , or it is in moist soil.
Watered from the night before, allows the trees to re-establish moisture balance
from wind and light exposure.
So it might stretch the N out in more water ?

Also our air tends to be 70 to 80 % by night, though the day goes down
to as low as 45 to 50 % by day during the dry season.
Would be the heavy clay soils offering up moisture.

Might be that tropical trees, and some sub-tropicals adapt rapidly.

If Paul of Australia were around he could explain it biologically.

I can tell you the fertiliser does not affect the soil critters.
We always have pill bugs and lizards around and on the soil.
Nothing dead.
When you compare soils/climate etc, what do you differ on?
Good Day
Anthony
 
I suggest you grow at least 10 natives, 5 a piece. 50 plants.

Anthony, thanks for the suggestion, but I have enough native trees to take care of, including this Ficus in question.
All alive and thriving.
And... Some JBP, Acer Kaede, Acer Kotohime, Pommegranates, JRP and so on.
I was just amazed about how fast the Ficus was backbudding.
 
@Clicio ,

appreciate the update.

Want to try this ----------- front on shot with a plain background.

Can't really see your effort,.
Good Day
Anthony
 
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