American Hornbeam Question

muscular fluted trunks

As a kid I participated in this so-called “Envirothon“ program, and my specialty on the team was forestry. I talked to dozens of different foresters who all taught me that Carpinus caroliniana is called “ironwood,“ but occasionally “musclewood” or “blue beech.” It wasn’t until I started using this site a couple years ago that I first heard the term “American hornbeam.” I suspect the bonsai community in the U.S. adopted the U.K. term “hornbeam,” because much of our bonsai culture has come from the U.K., and we tend to base our approach to the species on the techniques used for the closely-related European hornbeam. Of course, that’s just a guess. Reality is often stranger than fiction.

That said, in my experience with wild Carpinus, the wood is very hard and dense, but it’s also brittle and rots fast. I tend to apply that knowledge to bonsai, and I reseal all cuts yearly until they heal over completely. I wouldn’t use a deadwood feature at all, but if you’re going to, I’d recommend preserving the wood, so it doesn’t rot all the way to live tissue and kill the tree, which is something I see frequently in wild trees. It’s why they put out new trunks at the root collar when the top is cut.
 
As a kid I participated in this so-called “Envirothon“ program, and my specialty on the team was forestry. I talked to dozens of different foresters who all taught me that Carpinus caroliniana is called “ironwood,“ but occasionally “musclewood” or “blue beech.” It wasn’t until I started using this site a couple years ago that I first heard the term “American hornbeam.” I suspect the bonsai community in the U.S. adopted the U.K. term “hornbeam,” because much of our bonsai culture has come from the U.K., and we tend to base our approach to the species on the techniques used for the closely-related European hornbeam. Of course, that’s just a guess. Reality is often stranger than fiction.

That said, in my experience with wild Carpinus, the wood is very hard and dense, but it’s also brittle and rots fast. I tend to apply that knowledge to bonsai, and I reseal all cuts yearly until they heal over completely. I wouldn’t use a deadwood feature at all, but if you’re going to, I’d recommend preserving the wood, so it doesn’t rot all the way to live tissue and kill the tree, which is something I see frequently in wild trees. It’s why they put out new trunks at the root collar when the top is cut.
deadwood doesnt rot into live tissue, thats why youll see trees with their heartwood rotted out and still living for 100s of years.

More on that in this video

Here's an American hornbeam from seed, with a deadwood feature added, Arthur explains why and mentions that the wood takes a long time to rot.
you can preserve wood if you want to, ive never needed to or worried about rotting personally

I learn a lot from these resources and often post these links here, but I doubt anyone really absorbs this stuff.
 
deadwood doesnt rot into live tissue, thats why youll see trees with their heartwood rotted out and still living for 100s of years.

More on that in this video

Here's an American hornbeam from seed, with a deadwood feature added, Arthur explains why and mentions that the wood takes a long time to rot.
you can preserve wood if you want to, ive never needed to or worried about rotting personally

I learn a lot from these resources and often post these links here, but I doubt anyone really absorbs this stuff.

I just know I regularly see wild trees rot away to nothing and die. I don’t doubt Arthur’s experience, and obviously you have far more experience in bonsai than I do. Nonetheless, I don’t doubt what I’ve seen with my own eyes. I’ve seen a whole living tree reduced to humus in just a few years. I’m sure there’s some variable that accounts for the difference in our respective experiences with the same species. I suspect it has something to do with pests. I’ve yet to encounter a mature Carpinus that wasn’t riddled with borer holes in the bark.
 
Interesting tree , one thing I like is the deadwood in the center however , in the future I think it would look better hollowed out more , so the live sides can start to roll over it. Additionally, the upper canopy is too high , if you have lower buds in my opinion it cut back to those if you’d rather like that option, the future canopy can almost hide some of that dead feature like Bobby posted is a good reference for this style.
 
I just know I regularly see wild trees rot away to nothing and die. I don’t doubt Arthur’s experience, and obviously you have far more experience in bonsai than I do. Nonetheless, I don’t doubt what I’ve seen with my own eyes. I’ve seen a whole living tree reduced to humus in just a few years. I’m sure there’s some variable that accounts for the difference in our respective experiences with the same species. I suspect it has something to do with pests. I’ve yet to encounter a mature Carpinus that wasn’t riddled with borer holes in the bark.
In the wild it could be a multitude of reasons why a tree gives up n calls it a day. in a bonsai pot theres many things we can do to nurture and keep it healthy.
 
Hollow I did on a Hornbeam, difference you get with the depth in hollow
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