Advice on pre bonsai ginkgo

lizardman

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Hi!
First post.
I got this boy at a fall plant sale for a pittance, and I'm trying to work out how to advance it. There are several branches just above the root flare, and I'm concerned that if I don't chop a couple that they'll lead to reverse taper. Third pic is the reverse side of first two photos, for clearer view. How would you approach this tree for first steps? Thanks!!PXL_20251209_023913836.jpgPXL_20251209_024000547.jpgPXL_20251209_023928361.jpg
 
Welcome to the site. First steps depend entirely on what you want it to look like and how big you want it to be.

Normally, this tree would benefit from a few years in the ground to fatten up the trunk. Yes, some branches will need to be removed along the way, but really not yet.

However, if you’re brand new to bonsai and are eager to get this into a bonsai pot, it’s possible to shorten the branches (red lines for example), maybe reduce a few at the trunk and have something fairly interesting to look at when you repot it in the spring. However, the trunk won’t thicken appreciably in a decade in a bonsai pot.
IMG_2265.jpeg
 
Welcome to the site. First steps depend entirely on what you want it to look like and how big you want it to be.

Normally, this tree would benefit from a few years in the ground to fatten up the trunk. Yes, some branches will need to be removed along the way, but really not yet.

However, if you’re brand new to bonsai and are eager to get this into a bonsai pot, it’s possible to shorten the branches, maybe reduce a few at the trunk and have something fairly interesting to look at. However, the trunk won’t thicken appreciably in a decade in a bonsai pot.
I appreciate the reply!!
I'm totally fine leaving it to thicken and intend on planting come spring. I just wasn't sure if I'd be asking for swelling above the nebari if I allowed everything to continue as is.
 
I appreciate the reply!!
I'm totally fine leaving it to thicken and intend on planting come spring. I just wasn't sure if I'd be asking for swelling above the nebari if I allowed everything to continue as is.
If you’re putting it in the ground, I’d just put it in the ground and let it grow. It will “stool” up and throw shoots from everywhere for a few years. After a few years, you can dig it up, prune it hard to create a trunk line, and then back in the ground for a few more years to accelerate healing the cuts.
 
If you’re putting it in the ground, I’d just put it in the ground and let it grow. It will “stool” up and throw shoots from everywhere for a few years. After a few years, you can dig it up, prune it hard to create a trunk line, and then back in the ground for a few more years to accelerate healing the cuts.
Heard, I appreciate the advice!
 
I have a Ginkgo in the ground that is about ready to go into the pot. At the base it is 9cm (3.54 inch), stem size is +6cm (2.4 inchesà Judging from your recommendations @Brian Van Fleet, is it best to chop it first (planning to chop it at 80 cm (31.5 inches), is it best to keep it in the ground to fasten cut healing and do rootwork later or harvest it and do the root work first ?


Ginkgo_20251209_5588.jpg
 
Hm.. Looking at this stem, a much lower cut would be more advisable.
Why cut so high?
The idea was to take along the branches already there and use them as the upper-base for a flame. But I am merely a novice, so I'm quite happy to leave that thought if it would be commendable to cut (much) lower. What hight would you recommend to cut at?
That also leaves us at the main question: do I leave it in the ground at cutting time or do I lift it to also prune the roots ?

@lizardman, not intending to highjack your threat at all, but the title was so appropriate as another novice to jointly learn about building Ginkgo bonsai under one threat. I quite hope you agree with this.
 
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I have a Ginkgo in the ground that is about ready to go into the pot. At the base it is 9cm (3.54 inch), stem size is +6cm (2.4 inchesà Judging from your recommendations @Brian Van Fleet, is it best to chop it first (planning to chop it at 80 cm (31.5 inches), is it best to keep it in the ground to fasten cut healing and do rootwork later or harvest it and do the root work first ?


View attachment 622917
Looking at your tree, I would probably chop it really low in the early spring, down to 8-10” tall if you want at 30” tall tree eventually. I would let it grow freely for 2026 after chopping the trunk, and then dig it up and do some work on the roots in the spring of 2027. Then, it may be ready for a pot in 2028.
 
Looking at your tree, I would probably chop it really low in the early spring, down to 8-10” tall if you want at 30” tall tree eventually. I would let it grow freely for 2026 after chopping the trunk, and then dig it up and do some work on the roots in the spring of 2027. Then, it may be ready for a pot in 2028.
Now here's a plan. TYVM for that.
 
Looking at your tree, I would probably chop it really low in the early spring, down to 8-10” tall if you want at 30” tall tree eventually. I would let it grow freely for 2026 after chopping the trunk, and then dig it up and do some work on the roots in the spring of 2027. Then, it may be ready for a pot in 2028.
Might add one more chop in 2027 IF it responds well in 2026.

In the end I would aim for a series of cutback to create a bit of taper in the trunk
 
You bet. It’s what I did with mine and it turned out pretty well.

It really did.

 
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