Acer Palmatum | Shishigashira - Feedback on my plan

jevanlewis

Yamadori
Messages
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Location
Draper, UT
USDA Zone
7a
--- Overview and Goals ---
I have a Shishigashira, currently growing as a landscape tree, that I want to continue to field grow with the intention to turn into bonsai in the future. The trunk of this tree is 2". I'd like to keep it in the ground another few years to thicken the trunk and develop nebari. Targeting tree height of 24-36".

--- My Plan ---
Assumptions:
1) The "bulgy" nebari on the one side can be developed into something that looks nice. If this is likely not possible, my plan below will be modified to include an air layer step on the trunk, and subsequent steps will be pushed back at least one year.

Steps in Plan:
1) Dig up cut taproot and other down downward growing roots. (Timing: March 2020)
2) Spread out remaining roots horizontally and replant on top of 18" ceramic tile. Planting medium will be what it's growing in now, which is a mixture of sandy loam topsoil, native soil, and compost. (Timing: March 2020)
3) Let tree grow without any pruning (Timing: March 2020 - Spring 2022 or later)
4) When tree is one year from being potted and becoming a pre-bonsai, I will air layer branches that won't be part of the pre-bonsai, either as "final" branches or sacrifice branches. (Timing: Spring 2022 - Fall 2022)
5) Remove from ground, bare root and plant in pot with bonsai mix (Timing: Spring 2023)

Styling:
I only have initial ideas at this point, but I need to do more thinking here. I'm not sure if I need to make styling decisions now.

--- Questions ---
1) Any feedback on the overall plan? I've researched extensively so far as input into this plan, but but it's hard to keep track of everything, and there are slight differences in approaches.
2) What are your thoughts about the existing nebari? Will these large nebari bulges on the one side prevent a nice-looking nebari from being developed over time?
3) As stated above, I don't have concrete styling plans at this point. Do I need to make any styling decisions now, or are the first few years of my plan above relatively independent from ultimate styling decisions?
4) Please share any concerns you see with this tree ever developing into a nice-looking specimen. For example, after the curve at the base of the trunk, I don't like how the truck goes straight up with no movement for several inches and no branches. If this is an issue that can't be easily overcome, I am happy to keep this as a landscape tree (I'll still probably air layer some sections at the top, because I think some of those have potential for good bonsai).

--- About Me ---
I've been a green thumb my whole life but have only recently gotten serious about styling; specifically, I have spent the past two years learning about and practicing niwaki on trees (Japanese maples, pines, azaleas, camellias) in my landscape. However, I am brand new to bonsai. I've been reading, watching videos, and lurking on forums, and now I'm ready to get started! For my first bonsai, I am starting with the following: Shishigashira, Mikawa Yatsubusa, Japanese Black Pine, and Japanese Red Pine (yes, I know I am crazy to start with more challenging species...).
 

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That base ranks up there with the worst ever. I would leave this in the ground forever and air layer every branch off it. They are good trees to airlayer.

I would look for twin trunk branches to airlayer because shishigashira look good with twin trunks imo. If you never airlayered then try one or two this season then more later. There is a great resource on here called “science of air-layering” or something like that. I would air layer all these branches placing the top of the airlayer near the red line somewhere. Then start growing these out for bonsai.
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No manners around here, WELCOME TO THE NUT JAR!
Now you can start the advice and occasional abuse.
They all mean well, we'll most of them.
 
Welcome to Crazy!

Layer too!

Sorce
 
Sorry I wasn’t trying to be rude! I think your plan is good but as you stated the nebari puts everything else on hold. Also styling is a couple years away as well. You also stated airlayering branches and I think this needs to come first. Even before airlayering or ground layering the base.
My recommendation doesn’t mean you have to wait forever for a bonsai to enjoy either. You could make a forest with all those skinny trees you air layer!
I’m doing the same thing with this huge shishigashira I collected last year. Ive marked about 10 places to airlayer when the time is right.
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No worries! I didn't interpret any of the comments as rude, but instead appreciate the directness and honesty (and little bit of snarkiness to keep this forum entertaining ;)). It seems that the consensus is to keep the base of this thing in the ground as a landscape tree and air layer several branches to be used as bonsai in the future. I'll probably put most in the ground for several years but pot a few now for practice (or to make a forest).

@Maloghurst
Thanks for the air layering suggestions. Looks like we're both in 8b. I was planning to air layer in February or March sometime (on the first weekend with good weather), but can wait until April if that is better. Are you air layering your Shishigashira this year, and if so, when?

@ All
Would you recommend the same approach to my Mikawa Yatsubusa (photo belows). It definitely has an ugly graft, but I think the trunk directly above the graft has potential as bonsai. If that's the case, I'll probably air layer right above the graft this year, plant on a tile, and field grow it for a while without air layering any branches off the top so that the trunk can fatten up as quickly as possible. Once I like the size and am ready to pot and trunk chop, I'll air layer the top portions that won't remain on the base, because I think there is some nice material to work with up there.
 

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Late spring seems to be the consensus for airlayering after first push of growth. I’m going to try some at a couple times this season an see how they go.
 
In addition to layering at the top, you should consider a ground later at the base to establish a decent nebari. You have the potential for a good trunk line in the first 6 inches of trunk, running up that first branch as the apex.
 
Late spring seems to be the consensus for airlayering after first push of growth. I’m going to try some at a couple times this season an see how they go.
Actually, you can cut the girdle most anytime. Nothing much will happen until after the first flush has hardened though.
I have air layered acer palmatums that are in my landscape and found it much easier to see what I'm doing before it has leafed out.

Also, I cut the girdle and leave it open, exposed to the elements, for a day or two before bundling it up (like cut it on Saturday morning and bundle it up Sunday afternoon). This effortlessly kills residual cambium cells, largely preventing bridging of the girdle.
 
I'd do a quick google search first. I could be totally wrong but I thought shishigashira was a cultivar that absolutely will not respond to air layering or strike from cutting.
 
Fellow Bnut member parhamr (spelling?) was attempting layers on these a while ago but i never heard/saw if they ever supported themselves on their own roots. obviously I couldnt help but do a little googling myself. Seems like some people talk about taking cuttings but I didn't see much as far as success or failure. Didn't dig deep
 
Fellow Bnut member parhamr (spelling?) was attempting layers on these a while ago but i never heard/saw if they ever supported themselves on their own roots. obviously I couldnt help but do a little googling myself. Seems like some people talk about taking cuttings but I didn't see much as far as success or failure. Didn't dig deep
I have done three airlayers on my shishigashira click,click .

All three are still alive. I have used two of them as root graft,
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and another is planted in the ground in order to gain caliper.
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Cheers!
 
Well there you have it, thanks guys. I wonder what cultivar I was thinking of...
 
I would have air layered at least 12 of the upper branches at their base then do the chop.
 
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