A few observations to the guys from down under

[Anthony]

@MichaelS and Paul.

Michael. we talked about the use of the Osmocote type fertiliser for the
rainy season.

Here is what was observed.

[1] We have applied in the past a 1/3 strength Miracle gro Lawnertiliser [ 38 N ... ] for the
months of March, April, May and sometimes June, every week into moist
soil.

[2] We used to use an Israeli product designed for 30 deg.C [ osmocote type
beads ] for the months June/July, August, September, October, November,
December. [ repotting is from Jan 1st and the plant has at least a month to
rest / re-establish before fertilising ]

[3] This year we have given no fertiliser since June.

[4] Response, to rain, much growth ------- for example --- the Gmelinas
ended up with extensions of 20 cm and much more. Abundantly all
over the shrubs.

Will continue to monitor until Christmas.

I had read that the compost gives up it's NPK etc in 2 months. Then I
read elsewhere, this giving continued on for more like 2 years.

So I had also read that some growers of Bonsai [ probably Japan ] did
even bother to fertilise after repotting, as the soil was new.
This is for - refined trees .

We will watch for the rest of the year.
Fertilise a few, and see how it all goes.

Just wanted to let you know.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[MichaelS]

@MichaelS and Paul.

Michael. we talked about the use of the Osmocote type fertiliser for the
rainy season.

Here is what was observed.

[1] We have applied in the past a 1/3 strength Miracle gro Lawnertiliser [ 38 N ... ] for the
months of March, April, May and sometimes June, every week into moist
soil.

[2] We used to use an Israeli product designed for 30 deg.C [ osmocote type
beads ] for the months June/July, August, September, October, November,
December. [ repotting is from Jan 1st and the plant has at least a month to
rest / re-establish before fertilising ]

[3] This year we have given no fertiliser since June.

[4] Response, to rain, much growth ------- for example --- the Gmelinas
ended up with extensions of 20 cm and much more. Abundantly all
over the shrubs.

Will continue to monitor until Christmas.

I had read that the compost gives up it's NPK etc in 2 months. Then I
read elsewhere, this giving continued on for more like 2 years.

So I had also read that some growers of Bonsai [ probably Japan ] did
even bother to fertilise after repotting, as the soil was new.
This is for - refined trees .

We will watch for the rest of the year.
Fertilise a few, and see how it all goes.

Just wanted to let you know.
Good Day
Anthony

@Anthony

I'm not sure what you are saying exactly. Do you mean you saw [4] after [3]? As for NPK in the mix, It depends on the mix. Some can be leached in weeks (modern soil-less) Some last for a long time (humus - soil) Eg clay can have a surface area- for nutrient holding - thousands of times higher than sand.
You can use CRF at potting time without waiting. I don't use ferts on my older trees straight after potting. I wait until new growth is extending. This can be a month if repotting in spring and 5 months if done in autumn.

 

[Anthony]

Yes Michael,

even though we stopped fertiliser application, by June 1st, with rain, growth was very aggressive.

We fertilise in the dry months because that is the time we have the least cloud cover and
the highest temperatures [ 90 to 93 deg.F ] April / May for 30 to 10 minutes, and sometimes early June.
The leaves used to lose the green, and go yellowish.

We are back to clouds and 80's as F goes.

Observations will continue.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[63pmp]

Hi Anthony,

I did a pot trial with osmocote a few years ago. I used trident cuttings. Basically more osmocote produced more growth, as expected. However the growth became leggy and could not support its own weight and leaves became moth eaten. In a pinch I've put it on blackpines when fell behind with feeding,but its no good for deciduous?

 

[Anthony]

@63pmp ,

Paul., thank you very much for responding.

What is happening here is many of the grown efforts are over 25 years in age.
We don't have any real interest in exhibitions and so the shapes are generalized.

As the trees are ageing, we started looking more at how the compost and roots might
be interacting [ very basic in know how presently ] and if after our dry months,
is there any real need to fertilise and would this last for the expected soil change in
say 3 to 5 years.

Mind you even with age some of these trees are very pot bound in a year.

Guess we are looking to talk to the guys with 40 to 60 years of experience or are just
really good at maintaining trees.

Just trying to keep the trees healthy and see if their life cycle changes with age.
We should be around, if lucky to when they are are 40 years older [ 80 years + ]
Hopefully we can still lift and repot the 12 inch / 30 cm tall ones

Always good to read you.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[63pmp]

Hi Anthony,

I was thinking about how temperature here effects my fertilizer. Mostly how ammonium is converted to nitrate at higher temps and then I have to deal with nitrate induced chlorosis and pH changes as a consequence. That led to thoughts regarding tropicals and nitrates.

Tropicals are nitrate feeders, but not specialists. They dont have to work too hard at getting N. I wont go into detail why this is so. Now, nitrogen fixing bacteria do better in warmer climates, especially in tropical forests. So its not much of a reach to imagine your organic potting compost is high in nitrogen fixers feeding your bonsai. Other nutrients are probably recycled fairly efficiently by bacteria and fungi in the compost.

In my colder climate the biological processes is fairly slow and cant keep up with plant demand so have to supplement feed. In summer though everything takes off but since my mix is inorganic I have to feed to avoid nutrient deficiencies. Since I mostly grow cold climate deciduous. I'm not wanting much nitrate so I use a low N holding potting medium that will leach fairly easily. I also tend to vary N levels as soil temperature changes to try and manage internode length. I see these as some of the differences between our potting and fertilizing techniques.

Just thinking out loud.

Paul

 

[Anthony]

Paul,

thanks for sharing.
I am afraid on this side it is still a primitive response.

5 mm silica based gravel

if needed
5 mm crushed earthenware brick ------ absorbs water
and
compost. It's blended and after sifting, placed in a barrel and kept just moist.
Allows seeds to germinate and die.
We call it aged compost.

And that's it.

Using the Ball bearing principle and more recently hand rolled 8 mm earthenware spheres.
It is water absorbing.
So far it is doing exceptionally well on the local willow ficus [ this one weeps as it gets taller ]

Fertiliser is just 1/3 lawn fetiliser [ February to May / June ] Miracle Gro.
We used to think we needed an Osmocote type [ made for 30 deg.C Israel ] but we stopped using
it.

Doing more reading up on compost and what it can really do.

The J,b. pines also respond well to the above soil mix, but does not need the red brick.
Grown in earthenware pots, for extra water draining.
Just starting to check on ground growing, our case trough growing, and J.b.pines.
Thanks for being around.
Good Day
Anthony