Refining/Maintaining Shimpaku Foliage

mrcasey

Shohin
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As I understand it, the most accepted method for refined shimpaku foliage pruning, to do the following.

1. Clean out dead foliage.
2. Remove downward growing stems and foliage.
3. On each foliage clump, cut the strong extended runners back to a vigorous fork in the foliage clump.
4. Remove the weak foliage that typically grows closer to the base or behind each branch's foliage clump.

The idea is that the very strongest and very weakest growth is removed, thereby balancing vigor on all areas of the
tree.

The work is typically done in very early summer and then again in mid/late summer.

Do I have it right?
 
As I understand it, the most accepted method for refined shimpaku foliage pruning, to do the following.

1. Clean out dead foliage.
2. Remove downward growing stems and foliage.
3. On each foliage clump, cut the strong extended runners back to a vigorous fork in the foliage clump.
4. Remove the weak foliage that typically grows closer to the base or behind each branch's foliage clump.

The idea is that the very strongest and very weakest growth is removed, thereby balancing vigor on all areas of the
tree.

The work is typically done in very early summer and then again in mid/late summer.

Do I have it right?
Mostly. Do not remove any interior foliage (even weak) if you are hoping to shorten a branch, or get back-budding on a branch. Leave it all (on that branch) in the hopes that it might strengthen and/or create back-budding.
 
I've posted this to several similar threads, but it was very informative to me. It shows how to clean juniper/shimpaku foliage & how to arrange it. As far as cutback, I haven't found a great illustration. You want to always be refining, while also leaving options for the next refinement that's necessary. Remove crotch growth unless that's what you're going to cut back to.

Also, I differ with the advice given above. I'd prefer to remove the weak foliage and grow a backbud into place. Removing weak foliage seems to really promote vigor at the tips, which (vigor) is what drives backbudding, either along the branch or from a preceding crotch.
 

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Do you may
I've posted this to several similar threads, but it was very informative to me. It shows how to clean juniper/shimpaku foliage & how to arrange it. As far as cutback, I haven't found a great illustration. You want to always be refining, while also leaving options for the next refinement that's necessary. Remove crotch growth unless that's what you're going to cut back to.

Also, I differ with the advice given above. I'd prefer to remove the weak foliage and grow a backbud into place. Removing weak foliage seems to really promote vigor at the tips, which (vigor) is what drives backbudding, either along the branch or from a preceding crotch.
Do you maybe have some other material like these pictures that you posted? I’m trying to get a hold on refining juniper foliage, but not finding any good material online…
 
The graphic above gets the gist of it correct but encourages pinching which has been established as poor technique, particularly during development. At no point should you remove all the growing tips from juniper growth (as is illustrated in the 3rd row of the 2nd phase in the graphic above). At some point, in refinement, runners/whips will develop that clearly have more energy than the surrounding foliage. Those need to be removed, and its ok to use your fingers.

Also, in developing the foliage, you need to add more downward movement, generally right below a branch. This is part of what Boon calls that "more elbow". (There's a little more to it, but that comes with ultra-refinement.) This enhances the apparent age, but also serves to narrow the silhouette. (See "pad-development1.jpg)

When arranging branches, arrange the foliage in a way that has them organized, uniform in density, and radiating outward in a consistent manner. The graphic (pad-formation.jpg) uses pine foliage, but juniper branches are built the same way.
 

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The graphic above gets the gist of it correct but encourages pinching which has been established as poor technique, particularly during development. At no point should you remove all the growing tips from juniper growth (as is illustrated in the 3rd row of the 2nd phase in the graphic above). At some point, in refinement, runners/whips will develop that clearly have more energy than the surrounding foliage. Those need to be removed, and its ok to use your fingers.

Also, in developing the foliage, you need to add more downward movement, generally right below a branch. This is part of what Boon calls that "more elbow". (There's a little more to it, but that comes with ultra-refinement.) This enhances the apparent age, but also serves to narrow the silhouette. (See "pad-development1.jpg)

When arranging branches, arrange the foliage in a way that has them organized, uniform in density, and radiating outward in a consistent manner. The graphic (pad-formation.jpg) uses pine foliage, but juniper branches are built the same way.
I believe I've seen that image in the Stone Lantern book, 'Junipers', which is essentially a compilation of Japanese bonsai magazine articles from the 80's and early 90's. They are great articles with wonderful pictures, but finger pinching growing tips (which I did for almost a decade... with a strong tree, you could get away with it until you couldn't) is definitely an outdated technique. Other than pulling/cleaning out weak growth, I haven't used my fingers to prune a juniper in close to 2 decades ✂️.
 
At no point do you wholesale remove growing tips by clinching all the foliage and sheering all the tips off with your fingers. You ONLY pinch runners once refinement has happened. (The transition from development to refinement would be done w/ scissors.) The "refining-scale-juniper.png" worksheet (Boon's) shows the lifecycle of refining junipers pretty well: You develop density, then maintain a silhouette by removing RUNNERS outside the silhouette. At some point, the density becomes too much so you cut back. At some point, your trees vigor will result in crotch growth, which will allow you to thin out the density and continue to develop young branches.
 

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I believe I've seen that image in the Stone Lantern book, 'Junipers', which is essentially a compilation of Japanese bonsai magazine articles from the 80's and early 90's. They are great articles with wonderful pictures, but finger pinching growing tips (which I did for almost a decade... with a strong tree, you could get away with it until you couldn't) is definitely an outdated technique. Other than pulling/cleaning out weak growth, I haven't used my fingers to prune a juniper in close to 2 decades ✂️.
Bingo that's where the image is from.
@mrcasey don't forget a good fertilising before and after, and have vigour going in with refining methods. @Scriv posted a video yesterday in the what did you do today thread you might find helpful.
 
Thank you everybody for all the suggestions!!

It is the following one?


@bwaynef do you know where I can find Boon’s worksheet?

Maybe I’ll post a picture of the juniper before and after the wire/refinement once completed!
 
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