100% Akadama in the Northeast US

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Anyone here in the northeast using 100% akadama for any of their trees? I know Ryan Neil advises it for deciduous species, but I'm curious if that may not apply here where I believe we receive much colder weather, for instance.
 
Depends on what Akadama I reckon.

Sorce

how about this akadama because SOMEONE had ordered something before asking a question on here


Nb9cJgS.jpg



definitely not me, I’m not that silly

>_>
 
I don't know Japanese!

Not sure which is which but some is supposed to be softer.

Then again... It could be complete BS!

I'd test it first regardless.

Sorce
 
I dont know anyone that uses 100% akadama. Maybe someone in a hotter and dryer climate than I am, but I certainly wouldnt.
Akadama is a good mix component in that it retains more water than the other components it is usually mixed with.
It typically is mixed with pumice and/or lava which do not break down as readily and maintain the structure of the soil better but they dont retain water as well as akadama (at least this is my understanding of the different materials).
 
I dont know anyone that uses 100% akadama. Maybe someone in a hotter and dryer climate than I am, but I certainly wouldnt.
Akadama is a good mix component in that it retains more water than the other components it is usually mixed with.
It typically is mixed with pumice and/or lava which do not break down as readily and maintain the structure of the soil better but they dont retain water as well as akadama (at least this is my understanding of the different materials).

If I'm not mistaken, folks like Ryan Neil and Michael Hagedorn are proponents of 100% akadama for deciduous trees, which is more where my head's at. If I understand correctly, it would not be good to do that with a juniper, for instance.
 
If I'm not mistaken, folks like Ryan Neil and Michael Hagedorn are proponents of 100% akadama for deciduous trees, which is more where my head's at. If I understand correctly, it would not be good to do that with a juniper, for instance.
Not sure what Ryan or Michael use for deciduous. I only ever see Ryan talking about pines and junipers.
I use a mixture for my deciduous with more akadama than I would for a juniper. Something like 2 parts akadama, 1 part lava, 1 part pumice instead of 1 part each.
 
Yes, Ryan advocates for 100% akadama as a soil mix for many deciduous species. I started using 100% akadama last year for the first time and the results were fantastic. Much healthier trees than the pumice and bark based mix I was using before. Never going back. I’ve also started using 100% akadama for all my tropicals.

I am quite sure it will work just fine in the Northeast, too.

The akadama you purchased is not a brand that I’ve used before. Good akadama is hard, and does not crush easily between your fingers (it’s also not lava rock - even good hard akadama will crush if you apply enough force). I don’t see any dust in the small clear window of the packaging so that is a good sign. It also looks like a pretty small particle size, which is just fine unless you’re planning on using in a XL pot.

Akadama offers more than water retention. It also has a higher cation exchange capacity CEC to “hold” or “capture” nutrients.
 
Yes, Ryan advocates for 100% akadama as a soil mix for many deciduous species. I started using 100% akadama last year for the first time and the results were fantastic. Much healthier trees than the pumice and bark based mix I was using before. Never going back. I’ve also started using 100% akadama for all my tropicals.

I am quite sure it will work just fine in the Northeast, too.

The akadama you purchased is not a brand that I’ve used before. Good akadama is hard, and does not crush easily between your fingers (it’s also not lava rock - even good hard akadama will crush if you apply enough force). I don’t see any dust in the small clear window of the packaging so that is a good sign. It also looks like a pretty small particle size, which is just fine unless you’re planning on using in a XL pot.

Akadama offers more than water retention. It also has a higher cation exchange capacity CEC to “hold” or “capture” nutrients.

It seems pretty hard to me, I’ve definitely touched the softer stuff in a large grain size before and i could crumble it like you said.

I had found something talking about double red line akadama being good so that’s why I took a fly at this stuff, but I shoulda asked first probably
 
The only thing I can add about akadama is some brands are awful, some are great. The double fired hard line is perfect. One year I went for the cheaper option and had really poor results.

I have tried to figure out cheaper options for years but I have to say, ive finally determined akadama is worth the money and hype
 
The only thing I can add about akadama is some brands are awful, some are great. The double fired hard line is perfect. One year I went for the cheaper option and had really poor results.

I have tried to figure out cheaper options for years but I have to say, ive finally determined akadama is worth the money and hype

Yeah, I saw some for much much cheaper and it just didn't pass the sniff test. Something had to be wrong.
 
I think Mach5 uses 100% Akadama on his maples.

Maybe he can comment? Id like to know it if he actually does.
However I tried linking him on another thread for his advice but he never responded.
He might get too many notifications to get through I suspect
@MACH5
 
I think Mach5 uses 100% Akadama on his maples.

Yes I do. From time to time I might mix it with about 10 to 20% Kiryu. But for the most part I use only akadama. It has worked extremely well in my environment.

Maybe he can comment? Id like to know it if he actually does.
However I tried linking him on another thread for his advice but he never responded.
He might get too many notifications to get through I suspect
@MACH5

Yes sorry I did see that but declined to respond since I do not have extensive experience with Deshojo. I was hoping that perhaps Bill might chime in.
 
how about this akadama because SOMEONE had ordered something before asking a question on here


Nb9cJgS.jpg



definitely not me, I’m not that silly

>_>
Good stuff

Is that the shohin size?

I have spent a solid amount of time reading and testing different akadama.

There are garden level, bonsai level and premium level. All are good if you use them correctly.

We generally pay a large premium here in the states due to transportation and permit cost.

The brand you posted is solid.

Are you planning to repot often if you use 100% akadama?

I would try to find and use the hardest version.
 
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