Where to go from here,🤔 looking for some ideas

[Gregoryg]

Was thinking of a twin trunk, but still not sure

 

[DayDrunk]

Is this a recent picture? What region / climate zone are you in?

 

[Vance Wood]

Why don't you make a forest of it?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

It’s not twin trunk material. It appears to have a good start to radial surface roots, no scars on the trunk, and some taper. Work with these good features by highlighting them and planning the design to highlight them.

The big branch is an issue which should be addressed. Build new branches which are thinner and pliable. Google some good trident maple Bonsai and look at their trunk shape and branch structure.

 

[Gregoryg]

Is this a recent picture? What region / climate zone are you in?

Yes it’s a recent picture, I’m in Australia it’s winter here

 

[MrWunderful]

I would remove the large branch on left, and that straight leader on the right to induce some movement. Tridents heal pretty quick. I would cut back any branches not in a perfect spot for the final design and build new ones with buds that pop.

I dont see a twin trunk.

Edit: those chops should be done early spring, mid summer or right after leaf fall in autumn (not middle of winter)

 

[BrianBay9]

I would use some of the "branch" on the left as the new leader to get a bit better taper in that trunk. Take off the current trunk.

 

[Smoke]

I would use some of the "branch" on the left as the new leader to get a bit better taper in that trunk. Take off the current trunk.

That is exactly correct.

 

[TomB]

I would use some of the "branch" on the left as the new leader to get a bit better taper in that trunk. Take off the current trunk.

I was thinking the same.

 

[Shibui]

Twin trunk trees normally divide close to the ground which is why no-one is recommending twin trunk styling for this one. That branch is way too high for a second trunk unless you grow new roots just below that fork and even then the trunk lines do not flow nicely with each other.
I just happen to know this tree because I grew it but that's probably beside the point here.

My first option is also to remove the main trunk just behind the first strong branch to reduce height, get better taper and give you a bit o. That will leave a larger scar which will be largely hidden behind the trunk.
As usual, there are other options if that radical reduction does not seem appropriate.
Removing both of the larger branches (lower left and upper right) will give a taller, straighter and thinner looking tree with reasonable taper and only a couple of smaller scars that would heal over relatively quickly while you build branches and ramification.

Have fun making a good bonsai from this trident, whichever path you choose to follow.

 

[Deleted member 21616]

you have a great trunk with elegant taper, please do not use the left branch as a leader ☹

personally, i would never brazenly create such a big scar simply for the sake of outrageous taper - not on an elegant trunk like yours!

 

[Vance Wood]

Twin trunk trees normally divide close to the ground which is why no-one is recommending twin trunk styling for this one. That branch is way too high for a second trunk unless you grow new roots just below that fork and even then the trunk lines do not flow nicely with each other.
I just happen to know this tree because I grew it but that's probably beside the point here.

My first option is also to remove the main trunk just behind the first strong branch to reduce height, get better taper and give you a bit o. That will leave a larger scar which will be largely hidden behind the trunk.
As usual, there are other options if that radical reduction does not seem appropriate.
Removing both of the larger branches (lower left and upper right) will give a taller, straighter and thinner looking tree with reasonable taper and only a couple of smaller scars that would heal over relatively quickly while you build branches and ramification.

Have fun making a good bonsai from this trident, whichever path you choose to follow.

You cannot make a boat out of a colander.

 

[Cosmos]

Agreed with Derek. This forking subtrunk is prototypically maple. If you remove the whole of the continuation of the trunk to use the subtrunk as the new leader, the new image won’t work, as you have a very straight, but well-tapered lower trunk, and then, out of nowhere, a big curving trunk. Screams "human intervention", and without any visual element to explain that abrupt change (like a jinned top you could leave on an evergreen), it would risk looking just bizarre.

Think of the total image; I think we get obsessed with checking all the boxes like base/movement/taper/first branch/etc. Work with what you have there. Personally, I’d reduce the main trunk to one of the well-placed branchlets you have there, and try to continue building on that taper in the lower trunk, while growing out the subtrunk.

I think you have a very nice maple, it can make for a harmonious, stately, dignified upright tree.

 

[Gregoryg]

Twin trunk trees normally divide close to the ground which is why no-one is recommending twin trunk styling for this one. That branch is way too high for a second trunk unless you grow new roots just below that fork and even then the trunk lines do not flow nicely with each other.
I just happen to know this tree because I grew it but that's probably beside the point here.

My first option is also to remove the main trunk just behind the first strong branch to reduce height, get better taper and give you a bit o. That will leave a larger scar which will be largely hidden behind the trunk.
As usual, there are other options if that radical reduction does not seem appropriate.
Removing both of the larger branches (lower left and upper right) will give a taller, straighter and thinner looking tree with reasonable taper and only a couple of smaller scars that would heal over relatively quickly while you build branches and ramification.

Have fun making a good bonsai from this trident, whichever path you choose to follow.

what I’ve been reading on maples do I prune in late autumn because of bleeding

 

[Shibui]

I'm currently pruning the tridents as I dig them out of the grow beds. Cutting the roots stops any bleeding so I can dig and prune right through to spring. You can also prune any time after the spring flush right through to autumn with minimum bleeding.
Note that most here on B'nut do not worry about maples bleeding as the bleeding is just some water oozing out so no problem.

 

[sorce]

I'd be in here.

Also Cut off things where more than good 2 forks are.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

 

[Gregoryg]

This is how I went

 

[Smoke]

Awesome...if straight segments was your goal, you nailed it!

Congratulations.

 

[Shibui]

The top section, circled in green, definitely will have issues, quite apart from the long, straight sections.

The red circle is where you have removed a thick trunk leaving a new replacement and some side shoots. That sound great in theory but square cuts like that never seem to heal up cleanly and usually develop into a bulge. I know this because I've done it many times in the past. Now I always make trunk reductions with and angled cut even though that means removing any existing side branches. That seems counterproductive but there are still buds at the base of the new leader that will sprout to give you the required branches but with a more tapered trunk line.

You at not going to get a showable trident in a single year no matter what you do. Need to plan for the longer term. I would leave it at that for now. Allow the apex to grow freely this summer to help heal those cuts. Wire the branches that are in good places for initial shape but also allow them to grow long to gain thickness.
Next autumn will be soon enough to make the next apex reduction IMHO.

 

[kouyou]

i came across this photo and thought of you @Gregoryg

nice start!

sacrifice branch(es) to thicken the lowest section might be a good idea, not sure if others agree